The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its whitening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1-3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid was shown to improve epidermal-dermal microstructure and reduce fine lines and wrinkles after application(4).

Acacia Decurrens (also known as mimosa wax), or black acacia, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract provide skin-conditioning and occlusive effects. Acacia Decurrens Wax contains a mixture of free fatty acids, saturated monoesters, and a large amount of odd-chain hydrocarbons. As a wax, it possesses skin-protecting and film-forming properties.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a synthetically produced, acetylated dipeptide ester. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a skin-care well-aging ingredient, as it specifically helps to firm the skin structure. The dipeptide not only promotes the synthesis of elastin, but also supports the functional organization of elastic fibers. Studies have shown that it stimulates key structural proteins that are responsible for the mechanical stability of the tissue. This gives the skin greater elasticity and makes it more resistant to sagging and external stress. (1-2)

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide and is often used as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. In studies (in vitro), it modulates components of the SNARE complex, whereby mimic micro-contractions can be attenuated - often described as "botox-like" (cosmetic, non-injectable mechanism)(1-2).

Application tests report a smoothing of fine lines. In the eye area, additional brightening and soothing effects were observed on tired-looking eyes. Manufacturer data show that the activity of tyrosinase—a key enzyme in melanin formation—can be inhibited (in vitro), thus contributing to a more even skin tone. (3-4)

Arginine is an important amino acid that has impressive moisturizing, antioxidant and wound-healing properties in skin care. It binds water and thus improves the hydration and suppleness of the skin. Arginine also plays an important role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration(1-2).

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products as it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in the treatment of dry skin(3-4).

Bacillus ferment is obtained from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. According to the manufacturer, Bacillus ferment increases the skin's moisture supply by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by reducing redness and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of several active ingredients that have not yet been extensively studied but have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with EU cosmetics regulations and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continuously being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, which is why we have incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient base. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new studies and adapted accordingly.

Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It occurs naturally in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promotes wound healing and can minimize redness.(1) In an ex vivo study, a cream containing 0.2% carnosine also exhibited remarkable anti-glycation properties. Glycation is a reaction between proteins and sugars that leads to the formation and accumulation of certain glycation end products. These end products have also been found to be associated with extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. The glycation of collagen I, an essential structural protein in the dermis, impairs its function in many ways. Studies have shown that glycated collagen and elastin have altered biomechanical properties, leading to loss of elasticity and increased stiffness, which in turn promotes the appearance of wrinkles.

Copper tripeptide, also known as GHK-Cu, consists of three amino acids (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) that form a chelate complex with a copper ion. It is a signaling and carrier peptide and is one of the most intensively researched peptides. It has been shown to have a strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.(1) GHK-Cu has also been shown to have a positive effect on fibroblasts, which are key cells involved in the regeneration and renewal processes of the skin.(2) As copper is an important trace element that plays a key role in the production of collagen and elastin, GHK-Cu can be a natural supply for copper in connective tissue synthesis.(3) It therefore supports and stimulates the body's own collagen, elastin and proteoglycan synthesis, which can improve skin elasticity and smoothness.(4-5)

Ectoin is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive under extreme environmental conditions such as extreme dryness, UV radiation or high salt concentrations. This ability to protect against stress can also be used for the skin.

Firstly, ectoine has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin and increases skin resistance. (1-2) Ectoine is also particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skin care cream can improve parameters of skin aging such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin was even able to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at different cell levels. (3-4)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its numerous health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also credited with antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1-3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only due to its radical-scavenging activity but also because of its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4-5)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: if the barrier function is impaired, changes in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, can occur, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of elasticity in the skin. This can be corrected by topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glycolic acid, also known as glycolic acid, is one of the most effective alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and is often used in cosmetics due to its versatile properties. This acid can improve skin hydration, increase skin thickness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Glycolic acid is also very effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and acne(1-4).

Lactobacillus Ferment is a biotechnologically obtained active ingredient (postbiotic) from the fermentation process of Lactobacillus crispatus. It contributes to more elastic skin, reduces the appearance of crow's feet (lateral eye wrinkles) and ensures an even complexion.(1) Studies report a reduction in fine lines and an improvement in skin elasticity.(2)

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a peptide obtained as a reaction product of palmitic acid and pentapeptide-4. It is also called matrixyl and consists of a short peptide chain with five amino acids (lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, serine), which is bound to palmitic acid.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a biologically active peptide that has been reported to stimulate the production of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagens (especially types I, III and IV) and may aid in wound healing.1 It has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing periorbital wrinkles by reducing wrinkle depth and increasing skin barrier function and skin elasticity(1-3).

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is a component of certain antibodies with the sequence Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Together with palmitoyl tripeptide-1, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000. In studies, Matrixyl™3000 led to a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth as well as skin roughness and an increase in skin thickness(1).

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide reduces the release of a pro-inflammatory signaling protein and thus reduces inflammation after UVB exposure(2-3).

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a peptide obtained as a reaction product of palmitic acid and tripeptide-1. Together with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, it is also known as Matrixyl™3000 and consists of a short peptide chain with three amino acids (glycine, histidine and lysine = GHK peptide), which is bound to the fatty acid palmitic acid.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 has shown ex vivo the sole ability to boost the synthesis of type 1 collagen in the body and prevent the breakdown of collagen after UVA irradiation.(1) In studies, Matrixyl™3000 has been shown to result in a statistically significant reduction in wrinkle length and depth, skin roughness and increase in skin thickness.(2)

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic tripeptide used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient for well-aging. As a matrikine-like peptide, it can address signaling pathways in the extracellular matrix and thus smooth the skin structure: Manufacturer data reports a visible reduction in wrinkles (e.g., forehead, crow's feet) with regular use. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a so-called matrix peptide that stimulates the production of important components of the skin matrix, including collagen I, III, and IV, as well as hyaluronic acid.(1) These structures ensure the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In clinical studies, palmitoyl tripeptide-38 was shown to visibly reduce wrinkle depth. In formulations, it therefore serves to maintain good skin condition and a more even skin texture. (1-3)

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a versatile, mild emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials. It offers moisturizing properties and forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products. It can also increase the skin penetration of other active ingredients, such as those with anti-ageing properties(1).

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a plant-based oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. The plant-based oil is well-tolerated and makes even dry skin supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives (retinoids). Retinoids increase the collagen content in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen degradation and increasing collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid, so it only requires a single conversion step to be oxidized into the active form. In current studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with a favorable ratio of activity and tolerability(1).

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for the treatment of skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In a randomized double-blind study, the effect of 0.05 % and 0.1 % retinal on photoaged skin was investigated. Both concentrations were able to achieve an improvement in the general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations were able to achieve a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in the skin's moisture content. 0.1 % Retinal was also able to achieve a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated(2).

The metabolism of retinal to retinoic acid only takes place by keratinocytes at a certain stage of differentiation, which leads to a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to less retinoid-related side effects such as skin irritation or redness compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated(3).

In another study, 0.05% retinal significantly increased the epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin. Retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal skin thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness and was very well tolerated by the patients(4).

In an ex-vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation as well as increased collagen synthesis were observed(5).

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05 - 0.1 % retinal is able to reduce signs of skin ageing.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study on the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, the daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This result indicates a direct antibacterial activity(7).

In another study, 0.05% retinal showed the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid when applied topically, namely a comedolytic and epidermal thickening effect. The results of the study support the topical application of retinal in the treatment of acne(8).

Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a powerful antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and other environmental influences. In the skin, it protects cell structures such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from free radicals, thereby helping to prevent light-induced skin aging (photoaging).(1-3)

The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its whitening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1-3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid was shown to improve epidermal-dermal microstructure and reduce fine lines and wrinkles after application(4).

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with numerous benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is often used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation in rosacea. (2, 4) Azelaic acid also has a strong antioxidant effect by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

Baicalin is a plant flavonoid from the root of Scutellaria baicalensis (Chinese helmetwort) with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.(1-2) In in-vitro studies, baicalin also showed that it could slow down cellular ageing processes through its antioxidant/anti-inflammatory effect.(3-4)

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally extracted from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help to soothe skin irritations and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness. (1-5)

Camellia Sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to make green tea. Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract is the extract from the plant's leaves, which is used in cosmetics as a skin care product.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other secondary plant compounds. (2,6)

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. The antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

Copper tripeptide, also known as GHK-Cu, consists of three amino acids (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) that form a chelate complex with a copper ion. It is a signaling and carrier peptide and is one of the most intensively researched peptides. It has been shown to have a strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.(1) GHK-Cu has also been shown to have a positive effect on fibroblasts, which are key cells involved in the regeneration and renewal processes of the skin.(2) As copper is an important trace element that plays a key role in the production of collagen and elastin, GHK-Cu can be a natural supply for copper in connective tissue synthesis.(3) It therefore supports and stimulates the body's own collagen, elastin and proteoglycan synthesis, which can improve skin elasticity and smoothness.(4-5)

Ectoin is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive under extreme environmental conditions such as extreme dryness, UV radiation or high salt concentrations. This ability to protect against stress can also be used for the skin.

Firstly, ectoine has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin and increases skin resistance. (1-2) Ectoine is also particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skin care cream can improve parameters of skin aging such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin was even able to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at different cell levels. (3-4)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its numerous health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also credited with antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1-3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only due to its radical-scavenging activity but also because of its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4-5)

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is obtained by optimized fermentation of Lactobacillus pentosus. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate improves the function of the skin barrier by increasing the formation of tight junction proteins, which contribute to the stabilization of cell assemblies in the skin.(1) In the manufacturer's studies, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate was found to inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokines. Overall, these results show that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate has anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen the skin's barrier function, limit transepidermal water loss, increase skin hydration and help restore the skin after external aggressions(2).

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate is a biotechnologically obtained plant extract from the cell cultures of the noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), which contains a variety of bioactive compounds. Studies have shown that noni has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties that can contribute to skin care products to protect against environmental stress, support the skin barrier, and reduce oxidative processes. (1-4)

The biotechnologically derived active ingredient from noni plant stem cells works via an innovative mechanism: it inhibits bacterial communication (quorum sensing), thereby supporting the balance of the skin microbiome and helping to counteract impurities, excess sebum, and skin redness—without disrupting the natural microbiota.

Phytosphingosines belong to the sphingolipids, which occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main fraction of ceramides. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines show excellent clinical results in acne skin care based on both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable by-product of wine production. It is valued in skin care for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity. (1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and secondary plant compounds such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that components from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Zinc oxide is a white, mineral powder that is used in cosmetics primarily as a UV filter and pigment (CI 77947). As a component of a sunscreen, it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays by absorbing them and reflecting them to a small extent. Zinc oxide can also have an astringent and anti-inflammatory effect(1-2).

The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its whitening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1-3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid was shown to improve epidermal-dermal microstructure and reduce fine lines and wrinkles after application(4).

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In one study, a cream containing 0.5% allantoin was shown to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce redness after targeted irritation. Allantoin also has an occlusive effect, which can reduce transepidermal water loss from the skin.(1) Allantoin also has a strong antioxidant effect and protects the skin from free radicals. (2)

Arginine is an important amino acid that has impressive moisturizing, antioxidant and wound-healing properties in skin care. It binds water and thus improves the hydration and suppleness of the skin. Arginine also plays an important role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration(1-2).

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products as it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in the treatment of dry skin(3-4).

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skin care products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting function due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-lightening ingredient in cosmetics(1-2).

In an in-vitro study, the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light was investigated. The results indicate that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)(3).

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum is able to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-based formulations. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a technological antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)-(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also able to promote collagen synthesis in the deeper cells. (2-3) In a study from 2021, in combination with other substances such as rice peptides, it was able to increase skin moisture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis. (4)

Astaxanthin isextractedfrom thegreen algae Haematococcus pluvialis. This algae is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). It occurs in a variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly known for its pronounced antioxidant effect. Its antioxidant properties are based on its chemical structure. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals. These unstable molecules are capable of causing cell damage. Astaxanthin's protective mechanism prevents premature skin aging. (1-3)

The antioxidant effect to protect cell membranes is stronger than that of vitamin C and vitamin E. Astaxanthin is therefore considered to be the natural carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect(4).

Research suggests that astaxanthin may be beneficial in inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology(5).

A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This enables astaxanthin to penetrate the bilayer of the skin more effectively and to have a more multi-layered effect than other antioxidants(6).

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with numerous benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is often used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation in rosacea. (2, 4) Azelaic acid also has a strong antioxidant effect by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

Baicalin is a plant flavonoid from the root of Scutellaria baicalensis (Chinese helmetwort) with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.(1-2) In in-vitro studies, baicalin also showed that it could slow down cellular ageing processes through its antioxidant/anti-inflammatory effect.(3-4)

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is extracted from the rapeseed plant and is used in many cosmetic products. It has moisturizing and protective properties and a light texture. Its ingredients include many essential fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. These ingredients help to hydrate and protect the skin. It has been classified as safe in a cosmetic ingredient safety assessment(1).

Camellia Sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to make green tea. Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract is the extract from the plant's leaves, which is used in cosmetics as a skin care product.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other secondary plant compounds. (2,6)

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. The antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

Copper tripeptide, also known as GHK-Cu, consists of three amino acids (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) that form a chelate complex with a copper ion. It is a signaling and carrier peptide and is one of the most intensively researched peptides. It has been shown to have a strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.(1) GHK-Cu has also been shown to have a positive effect on fibroblasts, which are key cells involved in the regeneration and renewal processes of the skin.(2) As copper is an important trace element that plays a key role in the production of collagen and elastin, GHK-Cu can be a natural supply for copper in connective tissue synthesis.(3) It therefore supports and stimulates the body's own collagen, elastin and proteoglycan synthesis, which can improve skin elasticity and smoothness.(4-5)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its numerous health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also credited with antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1-3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only due to its radical-scavenging activity but also because of its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4-5)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skin care for its mild and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the top layer of skin and promotes cell renewal, leaving the skin looking smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce blemishes, and care for mature skin. (1-3)

Haematococcus pluvialis is a green microalga that is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids, as well as proteins and fatty acids.(1)

Astaxanthin is found in a wide variety of organisms, from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly known for its pronounced antioxidant effect, which enables it to effectively combat free radicals(2-3).

Due to its unique chemical structure, astaxanthin has powerful antioxidant properties. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can cause cell damage. This protective mechanism helps prevent premature aging and various health problems. (2-3) Astaxanthin is considered "the most powerful antioxidant known" worldwide.(4) Its antioxidant effect through the protection of cell membranes is considered to be 65 times stronger than that of vitamin C and 50 times stronger than vitamin E. In addition, astaxanthin is considered to be the carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect.(5) Research suggests that astaxanthin may be beneficial in immune and inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already used in dermatology.(6) A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This enables astaxanthin to penetrate the double layer of the skin more effectively and act in multiple ways, compared to other antioxidants. (7)

Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract is a plant extract from sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides, willow family).(1) In our formulation, we use an extract obtained from upcycled leaves, which is used as an antioxidant, skin-caring ingredient due to its composition (including phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, organic acids). Manufacturers report an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness as well as a fresher-looking eye area(2).

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive ingredients such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids. (1-2)

In skin care, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and reduce signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effect, it is also considered to help prevent premature skin aging caused by environmental influences.

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the lactic acid-producing bacterium Lactococcus lactis. We use a biotechnologically produced lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions and cell wall components are retained. The ferment can support desquamation (gentle desquamation of dead skin cells), promote the restoration of the skin barrier after damage and support a balanced skin microbiome.(1) It supports skin hydration and can help to stabilize the natural pH value.(2) It also exhibits antioxidant properties (in vitro) and helps to neutralize free radicals.(3)

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate is a biotechnologically obtained plant extract from the cell cultures of the noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), which contains a variety of bioactive compounds. Studies have shown that noni has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties that can contribute to skin care products to protect against environmental stress, support the skin barrier, and reduce oxidative processes. (1-4)

The biotechnologically derived active ingredient from noni plant stem cells works via an innovative mechanism: it inhibits bacterial communication (quorum sensing), thereby supporting the balance of the skin microbiome and helping to counteract impurities, excess sebum, and skin redness—without disrupting the natural microbiota.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is a synthetic peptide which consists of the amino acids lysine, methionine and lysil and is bound to palmitic acid. Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is part of the complex used called Volulip™. In in vivo studies conducted by the manufacturer, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface and volume), moisture and youthfulness (more beautiful contour and plumping effect) in at least 69% of the test subjects.(2) It is one of the "matrikine mimetic compounds" that play a key role in the synthesis of elastin and collagen. It can also stimulate cell proliferation. Palmitic acid as a component also has an antioxidant effect. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Plum seed oil has antioxidant properties and is rich in valuable fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acid. It has skin-repairing properties, is easy to spread and is non-greasy(1).

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is obtained using yeast of the genus Pseudozyma. Fermentation produces bioactive components that can enhance the skin-care properties of the oil.(1-3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties. (1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care. (4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the microbial diversity of the skin (alpha diversity) and have a positive effect on the skin microbiome. (1)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant that is primarily native to tropical regions. The ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other mostly unsaturated fatty acids.(1) It also has an antioxidant effect.(2) It is often used in cosmetic products because of the myristic acid it contains, which acts as a stabilizing emulsifier. (1) It has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients. (3)

Sodium phytate is the sodium salt of phytic acid, which is extracted from plants and acts as a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances that are used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation.(1) The special feature of this chelating agent is that it not only acts as a preservative, but also has antioxidant properties.(2)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skin care to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD is a cell protection mechanism, as it protects cells from DNA, protein, and lipid damage. (1-2)

Together with glycine soy protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, superoxide dismutase was shown in an in vivo study to improve skin texture and, in an in vitro study, to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Tocopherol (vitamin E) is a powerful antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and other environmental influences. In the skin, it protects cell structures such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from free radicals, thereby helping to prevent light-induced skin aging (photoaging).(1-3)

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable against oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that tocopheryl acetate in suitable formulations can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skin care products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging. (1-3)

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract or Silver Ear, better known as Snow Mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), is a species of mushroom and belongs to the Tremelaceae family. They contain polysaccharides consisting of mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid.(1) These polysaccharides form a film on the surface of the skin, which increases the water-binding capacity and maintains the water content in the skin.1 Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract also has a strong antioxidant effect and thus protects against free radicals.(2-3)

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable by-product of wine production. It is valued in skin care for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity. (1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and secondary plant compounds such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that components from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Yeast Extract, also known as yeast extract or Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, effectively relieves itching.(1) The active ingredient also has moisturizing, wound-healing and cell-renewing effects. It has antioxidant and immunomodulatory properties that can improve skin quality(2).

Zingiber Zerumbet Extract is a plant extract from the broad-leaved ginger (Zingiber zerumbet). It is used in cosmetic formulations as a skin care product and contains secondary plant substances with antioxidant properties. Manufacturer data (in vitro) indicate a reduction in oxidative and micro-inflammatory stress. In observational studies (in vivo), an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness as well as a fresher-looking eye appearance was reported. The extract can also refine the appearance of the skin(1).

The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its whitening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1-3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid was shown to improve epidermal-dermal microstructure and reduce fine lines and wrinkles after application(4).

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide and is often used as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. In studies (in vitro), it modulates components of the SNARE complex, whereby mimic micro-contractions can be attenuated - often described as "botox-like" (cosmetic, non-injectable mechanism)(1-2).

Application tests report a smoothing of fine lines. In the eye area, additional brightening and soothing effects were observed on tired-looking eyes. Manufacturer data show that the activity of tyrosinase—a key enzyme in melanin formation—can be inhibited (in vitro), thus contributing to a more even skin tone. (3-4)

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skin care products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting function due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-lightening ingredient in cosmetics(1-2).

In an in-vitro study, the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light was investigated. The results indicate that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)(3).

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum is able to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also able to promote collagen synthesis in the deeper cells. (2-3) In a study from 2021, in combination with other substances such as rice peptides, it was able to increase skin moisture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis. (4)

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with numerous benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is often used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation in rosacea. (2, 4) Azelaic acid also has a strong antioxidant effect by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its numerous health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also credited with antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1-3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only due to its radical-scavenging activity but also because of its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4-5)

Glycolic acid, also known as glycolic acid, is one of the most effective alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and is often used in cosmetics due to its versatile properties. This acid can improve skin hydration, increase skin thickness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Glycolic acid is also very effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and acne(1-4).

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, solvent for pigments and antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be fully metabolized and provides the skin with two additional essential substances: linoleic acid and choline: Linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also often used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum(3).

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and is one of the essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a pigment-lightening effect, which is due to the suppression of melanin production and increased desquamation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (mica) - for example to create shine, shimmer or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eye shadows and other decorative products(1-2).

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sun care and make-up products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves durability and ensures a pleasant skin feel. Due to its film-forming properties, Polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the abrasion resistance of the product(1).

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives (retinoids). Retinoids increase the collagen content in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen degradation and increasing collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid, so it only requires a single conversion step to be oxidized into the active form. In current studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with a favorable ratio of activity and tolerability(1).

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for the treatment of skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In a randomized double-blind study, the effect of 0.05 % and 0.1 % retinal on photoaged skin was investigated. Both concentrations were able to achieve an improvement in the general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations were able to achieve a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in the skin's moisture content. 0.1 % Retinal was also able to achieve a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated(2).

The metabolism of retinal to retinoic acid only takes place by keratinocytes at a certain stage of differentiation, which leads to a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to less retinoid-related side effects such as skin irritation or redness compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated(3).

In another study, 0.05% retinal significantly increased the epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin. Retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal skin thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness and was very well tolerated by the patients(4).

In an ex-vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation as well as increased collagen synthesis were observed(5).

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05 - 0.1 % retinal is able to reduce signs of skin ageing.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study on the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, the daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This result indicates a direct antibacterial activity(7).

In another study, 0.05% retinal showed the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid when applied topically, namely a comedolytic and epidermal thickening effect. The results of the study support the topical application of retinal in the treatment of acne(8).

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly suitable for blemished skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid can help reduce blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin's surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion. (1-5)

Titanium dioxide is a white micropigment used as an opacifier, powder base, UV filter in sunscreens and colorant (C.I. 77891)(1).

Zinc oxide is a white, mineral powder that is used in cosmetics primarily as a UV filter and pigment (CI 77947). As a component of a sunscreen, it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays by absorbing them and reflecting them to a small extent. Zinc oxide can also have an astringent and anti-inflammatory effect(1-2).

Glyceryl oleate is produced by esterifying oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer. In cleansing products, it acts as a moisturizing ingredient that can even strengthen the natural lipid layer and smooth the skin.

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting mainly of kaolinite. It is a widely occurring clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. The fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency. (1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is often used in face masks, cleansing products, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin as it has a mattifying effect and soothes at the same time. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations. (4-5)

Other areas of application include its functions as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and powder base material. Kaolin can also be used as a white colorant (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.

Sodium chloride, also known as common salt, is used in low concentrations and acts as a thickening agent in cleaning products.

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleansing agent. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage in the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) This makes it a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

The chemical compound 3-ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its whitening, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and elasticity-enhancing properties.(1-3) In one study, an emulsion (O/W) containing 3% ascorbic acid was shown to improve epidermal-dermal microstructure and reduce fine lines and wrinkles after application(4).

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer that is used in cosmetic products as a film former, emulsifier or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, even and pleasant to apply, especially in emulsions with UV filters. We deliberately use this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability and the sensory experience(1-2).

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-based formulations. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a technological antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)-(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

Astaxanthin isextractedfrom thegreen algae Haematococcus pluvialis. This algae is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). It occurs in a variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly known for its pronounced antioxidant effect. Its antioxidant properties are based on its chemical structure. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals. These unstable molecules are capable of causing cell damage. Astaxanthin's protective mechanism prevents premature skin aging. (1-3)

The antioxidant effect to protect cell membranes is stronger than that of vitamin C and vitamin E. Astaxanthin is therefore considered to be the natural carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect(4).

Research suggests that astaxanthin may be beneficial in inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology(5).

A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This enables astaxanthin to penetrate the bilayer of the skin more effectively and to have a more multi-layered effect than other antioxidants(6).

Behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as vegetable oils from Moringa oleifera seeds, and to a lesser extent in rapeseed and peanut oil.(1) Cosmetic products containing behenic acid as an emulsifier are characterized by high storage stability, even at high temperatures(2).

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skincare as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.(1-2)

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier(1).

Carbomer consists of a high molecular weight chain of acrylic acid units. It functions as a gel and film former and thus increases the viscosity of formulations, stabilizing emulsions(1).

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is mainly used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation and makes the skin feel pleasant(1).

Dicaprylyl carbonate is a skin-conditioning and lipid-replenishing emulsifier that helps to improve the absorption of other ingredients in a cosmetic formula(1).

Glyceryl caprylate is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl caprylate (1) is the monoester of glycerol and caprylic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier(1).

Glyceryl oleate is produced by esterifying oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer. In cleansing products, it acts as a moisturizing ingredient that can even strengthen the natural lipid layer and smooth the skin.

Glyceryl stearate (1) is the monoester of glycerine and stearic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is an emulsifier that also serves as an emollient and skin care agent. It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid. It is used in skin care to improve skin moisture and barrier function and reduce irritation.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and contributes to a smooth, supple application on the skin. In addition, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by reacting starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skin care, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity regulator. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves spreadability on the skin. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate also reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps to bind moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well tolerated, ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin. (1-2)

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the lactic acid-producing bacterium Lactococcus lactis. We use a biotechnologically produced lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions and cell wall components are retained. The ferment can support desquamation (gentle desquamation of dead skin cells), promote the restoration of the skin barrier after damage and support a balanced skin microbiome.(1) It supports skin hydration and can help to stabilize the natural pH value.(2) It also exhibits antioxidant properties (in vitro) and helps to neutralize free radicals.(3)

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, solvent for pigments and antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be fully metabolized and provides the skin with two additional essential substances: linoleic acid and choline: Linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also often used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum(3).

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It has many uses in cosmetic formulations, for example as an absorbent, binding agent, emulsion stabilizer, and film former, as well as a skin care and hair conditioning agent.(1) Maltodextrin also often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation. (2)

Myristyl Myristate is a vegetable-based emulsifier and a waxy fatty acid ester. As a consistency agent, it contributes to the stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions and helps to improve the texture of the formulation by creating a smooth and supple consistency. This makes the emulsion easier to apply, improves absorption on the skin and creates a silky, powdery skin feel.

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that acts as an emulsifier and enables the formation of oil in water emulsions. Oleic acid can support wound healing by stimulating repair processes in the skin.(1) In higher concentrations, oleic acid can also increase the permeability of the skin and thus improve the penetration of active ingredients into the skin, for example.(2)

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate is an ester compound consisting of polyglycerol and lauric acid. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate acts as a mild emulsifier.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a versatile, mild emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials. It offers moisturizing properties and forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products. It can also increase the skin penetration of other active ingredients, such as those with anti-ageing properties(1).

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly suitable for blemished skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid can help reduce blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin's surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion. (1-5)

Sclerotium gum is a non-ionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator and conditioning component in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant that is primarily native to tropical regions. The ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other mostly unsaturated fatty acids.(1) It also has an antioxidant effect.(2) It is often used in cosmetic products because of the myristic acid it contains, which acts as a stabilizing emulsifier. (1) It has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients. (3)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-forming agent, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing effect. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modification of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps to improve the texture of skin care products(1).

Sodium cetearyl sulfate is a mixture of stearyl and cetyl sulfate that acts as an emulsifier.(1)

Sodium lauroyl lactylate is a salt of lactate and lauric acid. It acts as an emulsifier and also has excellent wetting and antibacterial properties(1).

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator(1).

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (SSL) serves as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers are additives that are used in cosmetic formulations to combine two actually immiscible phases, such as oil and water, into a stable, uniform emulsion(1).

Sorbitan isostearate is the monoester of isostearic acid and hexitol anhydrides, derived from sorbitol. It acts as an emulsifier in cosmetics and thus ensures the stabilization of emulsions. Sorbitan isostearate is often used in baby products(1).

Sorbitan laurate is the ester product of sorbitan and lauric acid and serves as an emulsifier. It is considered safe in cosmetic products(1).

Sucrose stearate (sucrose ester) is used as an emulsifier and skin care agent.(1) It is an ester of sucrose and fatty acids with various hydrophilic-lipophilic properties. Due to its gel-forming properties, it is used in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.(2-3)

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickener and stabilizer of emulsions and suspensions(1-2).

Blue to green color pigment (ultramarine) of mineral origin. The pigment is classified as recommended.(1)

Red-brown color pigment (iron oxide) of mineral origin.(1)

1,2-Hexanediol together with caprylyl glycol boosts the preservative system of our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. The combination of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol also has a moisturizing and nourishing effect on the skin. Studies have shown that this preservative system is very mild to the skin and does not irritate it(1).

2,3-Butanediol is a dihydric alcohol (diol) with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient - among other things to bind moisture, improve texture and as a dispersing agent for poorly soluble active ingredients(1).

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is aloe vera juice extracted from the leaves of the aloe vera plant. Aloe vera has been shown in numerous studies to promote wound healing. It is also used to maintain the moisture and integrity of the skin(1).

Amino acids such as alanine, arginine, isoleucine, valine, proline, threonine, glycine, serine, histidine, phenylalanine, aspartic acid and the derivatives sodium PCA and PCA contribute to maintaining the water balance in the uppermost layer of the skin.(1) As natural moisturizing factors (NMF) of the skin, they also support the maintenance of the skin's protective barrier.(2) The amino acids and their derivatives absorb moisture from the environment and store it in the lipid-protected corneocytes of the skin. In combination with lipids that slow down water diffusion, amino acids help the corneocytes to maintain their normal flattened, elongated shape in which they can selectively bind and retain water(3).

Arginine is an important amino acid that has impressive moisturizing, antioxidant and wound-healing properties in skin care. It binds water and thus improves the hydration and suppleness of the skin. Arginine also plays an important role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration(1-2).

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products as it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in the treatment of dry skin(3-4).

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also able to promote collagen synthesis in the deeper cells. (2-3) In a study from 2021, in combination with other substances such as rice peptides, it was able to increase skin moisture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis. (4)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

Bacillus ferment is obtained from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. According to the manufacturer, Bacillus ferment increases the skin's moisture supply by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by reducing redness and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of several active ingredients that have not yet been extensively studied but have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with EU cosmetics regulations and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continuously being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, which is why we have incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient base. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new studies and adapted accordingly.

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is extracted from the rapeseed plant and is used in many cosmetic products. It has moisturizing and protective properties and a light texture. Its ingredients include many essential fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. These ingredients help to hydrate and protect the skin. It has been classified as safe in a cosmetic ingredient safety assessment(1).

Butylene glycol is a dihydric alcohol that has a moisturizing effect and serves as a solvent(1).

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oils. They act as emollients and solvents in cosmetics. These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerol molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skin care for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a cosmetic oil of synthetic origin with a light, silky skin feel. It improves the spreadability of cosmetic formulations and has slightly occlusive properties that can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Due to its structural properties, it is also often used as a solvent for chemical UV filters in sunscreen formulations. (1-2)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a naturally occurring skin lipid in sebum, which consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products for its nourishing properties, while it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and is absorbed very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help to distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly in a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.

Caprylyl glycol has several important functions in cosmetic products. It has nourishing and moisturizing properties as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps to improve the stability of cosmetic products. (1-2) In combination with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservation system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. In addition, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin. (3)

Ectoin is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive under extreme environmental conditions such as extreme dryness, UV radiation or high salt concentrations. This ability to protect against stress can also be used for the skin.

Firstly, ectoine has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin and increases skin resistance. (1-2) Ectoine is also particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skin care cream can improve parameters of skin aging such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin was even able to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at different cell levels. (3-4)

EGCG is the abbreviation for epigallocatechin gallate, one of the most important polyphenolic compounds found in green tea (Camellia sinensis). This molecule, which belongs to the catechin class, is known for its numerous health benefits. These benefits stem from its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
The antioxidant defense system protects our skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV radiation, cigarette smoke, or oxidative stress. ROS promote the progression of skin aging, wrinkle formation, and pigmentation. Excessive production of ROS triggers programmed cell death (apoptosis).For this reason, EGCG is also credited with antimutagenic and antitumor effects.(1-3) A 2018 in vitro study concluded that EGCG is suitable as a cosmetic ingredient not only due to its radical-scavenging activity but also because of its positive effect on skin hydration and reduced wrinkle formation.This powerful antioxidant is capable of rejuvenating skin cells, effectively protecting them from ionizing radiation, and improving overall skin condition. EGCG is used in cosmetic products to effectively prevent premature skin aging and serves as a protective shield for our skin.(4-5)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skin care for its mild and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the top layer of skin and promotes cell renewal, leaving the skin looking smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce blemishes, and care for mature skin. (1-3)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: if the barrier function is impaired, changes in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, can occur, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of elasticity in the skin. This can be corrected by topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is an emulsifier that also serves as an emollient and skin care agent. It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid. It is used in skin care to improve skin moisture and barrier function and reduce irritation.

Glycolic acid, also known as glycolic acid, is one of the most effective alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and is often used in cosmetics due to its versatile properties. This acid can improve skin hydration, increase skin thickness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Glycolic acid is also very effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and acne(1-4).

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, counteracts water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and consequently in controlling skin flaking.(2)

Sunflower oil has protective properties for the skin. It is particularly suitable for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skin care products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, also known as Perfection Peptide P3, is a biologically active tripeptide that reactivates the skin's natural exfoliation process. By regulating the exfoliation process, the peptide improves skin quality and can thus improve the appearance of skin irregularities. It can accelerate skin cell renewal and provide the skin with intense moisture.

Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of some active ingredients for which there is not yet a broad study basis, but for which there are already promising findings. All ingredients used are of course legally compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation and safe, skin-friendly application is always guaranteed. This also includes Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, the addition of which we have noticed a significant, positive influence on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are constantly being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, so in addition to the evidence-based ingredient foundation, we have also formulated novel, exciting ingredients such as Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate into some products. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly checked for topicality and new study bases and adapted accordingly.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive ingredients such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids. (1-2)

In skin care, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and reduce signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effect, it is also considered to help prevent premature skin aging caused by environmental influences.

Hyaluronic acid is one of the primary factors in skin hydration, along with lipids, natural moisturizing factors, sebum, and aquaporin. As the predominant component in the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid plays an essential role in maintaining skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is formed early in embryonic development, making it one of the first extracellular matrix components. In addition to its ability to bind water, the molecule acts as a lubricant for skin movements between the collagen and elastic fiber networks in the dermis. Hyaluronic acid can also influence cell metabolism.

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis). It is an excellent moisturizer and, when combined with glycerin, provides moisture for at least 24 hours. (1-2)

Due to its chemical similarity to human sebum, it supports the skin's natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to retain moisture, and regulates sebum production without clogging the pores.

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by reacting starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skin care, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity regulator. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves spreadability on the skin. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate also reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps to bind moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well tolerated, ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin. (1-2)

Lactic acid acts as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates and moisturizes the skin, depending on the concentration used. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin's barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the structural integrity of the skin. (1-4)

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is obtained by optimized fermentation of Lactobacillus pentosus. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate improves the function of the skin barrier by increasing the formation of tight junction proteins, which contribute to the stabilization of cell assemblies in the skin.(1) In the manufacturer's studies, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate was found to inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokines. Overall, these results show that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate has anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen the skin's barrier function, limit transepidermal water loss, increase skin hydration and help restore the skin after external aggressions(2).

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the lactic acid-producing bacterium Lactococcus lactis. We use a biotechnologically produced lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions and cell wall components are retained. The ferment can support desquamation (gentle desquamation of dead skin cells), promote the restoration of the skin barrier after damage and support a balanced skin microbiome.(1) It supports skin hydration and can help to stabilize the natural pH value.(2) It also exhibits antioxidant properties (in vitro) and helps to neutralize free radicals.(3)

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It has many uses in cosmetic formulations, for example as an absorbent, binding agent, emulsion stabilizer, and film former, as well as a skin care and hair conditioning agent.(1) Maltodextrin also often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation. (2)

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride consists of a mixture of polyglycerides of plant origin with linoleic, linolenic and oleic acids. In clinical tests, the polyglyceride mixture was able to hydrate the three uppermost layers of the epidermis and slightly reduce wrinkles(1).

Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is a synthetic peptide which consists of the amino acids lysine, methionine and lysil and is bound to palmitic acid. Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is part of the complex used called Volulip™. In in vivo studies conducted by the manufacturer, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface and volume), moisture and youthfulness (more beautiful contour and plumping effect) in at least 69% of the test subjects.(2) It is one of the "matrikine mimetic compounds" that play a key role in the synthesis of elastin and collagen. It can also stimulate cell proliferation. Palmitic acid as a component also has an antioxidant effect. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin better than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1-3) Panthenol has a skin-caring and moisturizing effect and strengthens the skin's barrier function.(2-5) In dry skin, it compensates for the reduced hydration by increasing the water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins of the stratum corneum and thus also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4-5) Panthenol can support wound healing in burns, burns, corneal lesions and allergic dermatitis in all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5-6)

Phytosphingosines belong to the sphingolipids, which occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main fraction of ceramides. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines show excellent clinical results in acne skin care based on both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Polyglycerin-3 is polymerized glycerin, which is used in cosmetic products to moisturize the skin. Due to its large molecular size, it penetrates the skin comparatively slowly and thus ensures long-lasting moisturization. It also forms a protective barrier, binds water and traps it in the upper layers of the skin. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and was classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a versatile, mild emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials. It offers moisturizing properties and forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products. It can also increase the skin penetration of other active ingredients, such as those with anti-ageing properties(1).

Purslane is a succulent and, in the form of the extract, part of the complex used called Volulip™. In in-vivo studies conducted by the manufacturer, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface and volume), moisture and youthfulness (more beautiful contour and plumping effect) in at least 69% of the test subjects(1).

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is ecologically sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative that also moisturizes.

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is obtained using yeast of the genus Pseudozyma. Fermentation produces bioactive components that can enhance the skin-care properties of the oil.(1-3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties. (1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care. (4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the microbial diversity of the skin (alpha diversity) and have a positive effect on the skin microbiome. (1)

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives (retinoids). Retinoids increase the collagen content in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen degradation and increasing collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid, so it only requires a single conversion step to be oxidized into the active form. In current studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with a favorable ratio of activity and tolerability(1).

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for the treatment of skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In a randomized double-blind study, the effect of 0.05 % and 0.1 % retinal on photoaged skin was investigated. Both concentrations were able to achieve an improvement in the general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations were able to achieve a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in the skin's moisture content. 0.1 % Retinal was also able to achieve a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated(2).

The metabolism of retinal to retinoic acid only takes place by keratinocytes at a certain stage of differentiation, which leads to a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to less retinoid-related side effects such as skin irritation or redness compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated(3).

In another study, 0.05% retinal significantly increased the epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin. Retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal skin thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness and was very well tolerated by the patients(4).

In an ex-vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation as well as increased collagen synthesis were observed(5).

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05 - 0.1 % retinal is able to reduce signs of skin ageing.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study on the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, the daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This result indicates a direct antibacterial activity(7).

In another study, 0.05% retinal showed the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid when applied topically, namely a comedolytic and epidermal thickening effect. The results of the study support the topical application of retinal in the treatment of acne(8).

Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-based moisturizer that binds to the skin for a long time and can have a hydrating effect even after rinsing. It improves skin moisture, supports the skin barrier, and is particularly suitable for dry or sensitive skin. (1-3) Studies show that formulations containing saccharide isomerate provide the skin with lasting moisture and can also have a nourishing effect on dry or flaky scalps. (2,4)

Sclerotium gum is a non-ionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator and conditioning component in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Jojoba oil is a wax ester and its chemical similarity to human sebum supports the skin's natural balance, forms a non-greasy film to retain moisture and regulates sebum production without clogging the pores(1).

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modification of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps to improve the texture of skin care products(1).

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide consisting of glycosidically bound glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine monomers. Our skin is the most important storehouse of hyaluronic acid in the body, as it stores around half of the body's total hyaluronic acid content. Under optimal conditions, hyaluronic acid is found in all layers of the epidermis and dermis. Hyaluronic acid is an important component in the extracellular matrix of tissues such as connective tissue and it has the ability to bind large amounts of water, which is why it is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer, among other things. It also has many important functions such as the formation of proteoglycans(1).

Sodium lactate, a highly moisturizing active ingredient that increases the skin's water-binding capacity(1).

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleansing agent. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage in the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) This makes it a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is the diester of dilinoleic acid and polyglyceryl-3-triisostearate.(1) It is a high molecular weight, large polymer ester for use in cosmetics. Due to its high gloss properties, it is ideal for use in lip products such as lip gloss and lipstick formulations. In skin products it serves as a moisturizer(2).

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable by-product of wine production. It is valued in skin care for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity. (1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and secondary plant compounds such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that components from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Yeast Extract, also known as yeast extract or Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, effectively relieves itching.(1) The active ingredient also has moisturizing, wound-healing and cell-renewing effects. It has antioxidant and immunomodulatory properties that can improve skin quality(2).

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, usually acts as a preservative in cosmetics. When used topically (on the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. Ethanol is widely used for topical application with only rare reports of adverse effects(1).

Caprylhydroxamic acid is a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation. The special feature of this chelating agent is that it not only acts as a preservative but also has preservative properties.

Caprylyl glycol has several important functions in cosmetic products. It has nourishing and moisturizing properties as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps to improve the stability of cosmetic products. (1-2) In combination with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservation system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. In addition, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin. (3)

Citric acid is an ideal buffer substance that regulates the pH value of a formulation and acts as a chelating agent, thereby improving the stability and shelf life of products.

Dehydroacetic acid (dehydroacetic acid) is a synthetically produced preservative for cosmetic formulations. It protects products from microbial spoilage and contributes to product safety and shelf life(1).

Ethylhexylglycerin inhibits the growth and reproduction of odor-causing bacteria and increases the effectiveness of cosmetic preservatives.(1)

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has been used as a preservative in cosmetic products for decades. Phenoxyethanol has a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity and is effective against various gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria as well as yeasts, with only a weak inhibitory effect on the resident skin flora.(1) According to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol is safe for all consumers (including children of all ages) when used as a preservative in cosmetic products up to a maximum concentration of 1%. It can be considered as one of the best tolerated preservatives in cosmetic products(1).

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sun care and make-up products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves durability and ensures a pleasant skin feel. Due to its film-forming properties, Polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the abrasion resistance of the product(1).

Potassium sorbate (potassium sorbate) is a preservative used in cosmetics with an antimicrobial effect. It thus contributes to the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation(1).

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is ecologically sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative that also moisturizes.

Sodium benzoate is a generally recognized safe preservative that has a bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect in an acidic environment(1).

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid and is mainly used in cosmetics as a pH regulator and buffer substance. It helps to keep the pH value of formulations stable and thus supports skin compatibility and product shelf life. Sodium citrate is also used as a chelating agent to bind metal ions and thus improve the stability of cosmetic products(1-3).

Sodium dehydroacetate is used as a preservative in cosmetic products.(1) It protects the formulation against microbial spoilage and is an officially approved preservative according to the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Sodium levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid. As a preservative, it can help to improve the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. There are no restrictions on the use of sodium levulinate in cosmetic products in the European Union and it is considered to be non-irritating and harmless(1).

Sodium metabisulfite is a preservative. It is used in cosmetics and foodstuffs.

Sodium phytate is the sodium salt of phytic acid, which is extracted from plants and acts as a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances that are used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation.(1) The special feature of this chelating agent is that it not only acts as a preservative, but also has antioxidant properties.(2)

1,2-Hexanediol together with caprylyl glycol boosts the preservative system of our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. The combination of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol also has a moisturizing and nourishing effect on the skin. Studies have shown that this preservative system is very mild to the skin and does not irritate it(1).

2,3-Butanediol is a dihydric alcohol (diol) with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient - among other things to bind moisture, improve texture and as a dispersing agent for poorly soluble active ingredients(1).

Acacia Decurrens (also known as mimosa wax), or black acacia, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract provide skin-conditioning and occlusive effects. Acacia Decurrens Wax contains a mixture of free fatty acids, saturated monoesters, and a large amount of odd-chain hydrocarbons. As a wax, it possesses skin-protecting and film-forming properties.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a synthetically produced, acetylated dipeptide ester. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a skin-care well-aging ingredient, as it specifically helps to firm the skin structure. The dipeptide not only promotes the synthesis of elastin, but also supports the functional organization of elastic fibers. Studies have shown that it stimulates key structural proteins that are responsible for the mechanical stability of the tissue. This gives the skin greater elasticity and makes it more resistant to sagging and external stress. (1-2)

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer that is used in cosmetic products as a film former, emulsifier or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, even and pleasant to apply, especially in emulsions with UV filters. We deliberately use this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability and the sensory experience(1-2).

Arginine is an important amino acid that has impressive moisturizing, antioxidant and wound-healing properties in skin care. It binds water and thus improves the hydration and suppleness of the skin. Arginine also plays an important role in wound healing by soothing skin irritations and supporting cell regeneration(1-2).

Arginine is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic products as it can increase endogenous urea synthesis in keratinocytes, which is helpful in the treatment of dry skin(3-4).

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skin care products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting function due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-lightening ingredient in cosmetics(1-2).

In an in-vitro study, the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light was investigated. The results indicate that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)(3).

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum is able to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-based formulations. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a technological antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)-(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Behenyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol and is primarily used in skincare as an emollient or fat-soluble co-emulsifier. It helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.(1-2)

Betaine is a natural humectant. In cosmetics, it is used as an ingredient that binds moisture and keeps the skin supple. At the same time, betaine helps protect the skin from drying out. (1)

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally extracted from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help to soothe skin irritations and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness. (1-5)

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oils. They act as emollients and solvents in cosmetics. These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerol molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skin care for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier(1).

C18-36 Acid Triglyceride is a synthetic lipid that is used as a skin care product with occlusive properties(1).

C32–54 Isoalkanes is a mixture of branched, saturated hydrocarbons (isoalkanes). The designation "C32–54" describes the range of carbon chain lengths of the alkyl compounds contained. In cosmetics, it has a skin-care effect by acting as a softening emollient to give a smooth, soft skin surface and thus keep the skin in good condition.

Camellia Sinensis is the name of the tea plant, which is also used to make green tea. Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract is the extract from the plant's leaves, which is used in cosmetics as a skin care product.(1-2) This leaf extract is particularly beneficial for skin care due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (3-5) The antioxidant capacity of green tea extract is based on the composition of its bioactive components. These include polyphenols, amino acids, vitamins, and other secondary plant compounds. (2,6)

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a naturally occurring skin lipid in sebum, which consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products for its nourishing properties, while it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and is absorbed very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help to distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly in a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.

Caprylyl glycol has several important functions in cosmetic products. It has nourishing and moisturizing properties as well as antimicrobial properties. The latter helps to improve the stability of cosmetic products. (1-2) In combination with 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol enhances the preservation system, for example in our The Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser. In addition, study results have shown that caprylyl glycol is well tolerated by the skin. (3)

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is mainly used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation and makes the skin feel pleasant(1).

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is used as a skin care product (emollient) and also as a hair care product(1).

Coco-caprylate is an ester of (fatty) alcohols from coconut oil and caprylic acid (caprylate/caprate). In cosmetics, it acts as a skin-nourishing, smoothing emollient oil: it smooths the skin's surface and leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished. (1-2)

Decyl oleate is an ester of oleic acid and decanol that is used as a smoothing, moisturizing emollient in skin care products. Due to its similarity to natural skin lipids, it improves the feel of the skin. (1-2)

Dehydroacetic acid (dehydroacetic acid) is a synthetically produced preservative for cosmetic formulations. It protects products from microbial spoilage and contributes to product safety and shelf life(1).

Dicaprylyl carbonate is a skin-conditioning and lipid-replenishing emulsifier that helps to improve the absorption of other ingredients in a cosmetic formula(1).

Dimethicone is a synthetically produced silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin-smoothing emollient and anti-foaming agent. (1) In our Daily Defence SPF 30 Powder, dimethicone does not serve as a standalone oil base, but is used exclusively to coat the zinc oxide particles.

Disodium phosphate is a synthetically produced buffering agent that regulates and stabilizes the pH value of cosmetic formulations. At the same time, it can have an anti-corrosive effect. (1-2)

Ectoin is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive under extreme environmental conditions such as extreme dryness, UV radiation or high salt concentrations. This ability to protect against stress can also be used for the skin.

Firstly, ectoine has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin and increases skin resistance. (1-2) Ectoine is also particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skin care cream can improve parameters of skin aging such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin was even able to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at different cell levels. (3-4)

Ethylhexyl palmitate belongs to the alkyl esters, which are often used in cosmetics as a skin care component.(1) Ethylhexyl palmitate belongs to the emollients.(2)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skin care for its mild and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the top layer of skin and promotes cell renewal, leaving the skin looking smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce blemishes, and care for mature skin. (1-3)

Glyceryl caprylate is the monoester of glycerin and caprylic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl caprylate (1) is the monoester of glycerol and caprylic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier(1).

Glyceryl stearate (1) is the monoester of glycerine and stearic acid. It acts as a nourishing component, but also as an emulsifier.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is an emulsifier that also serves as an emollient and skin care agent. It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid. It is used in skin care to improve skin moisture and barrier function and reduce irritation.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, counteracts water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and consequently in controlling skin flaking.(2)

Sunflower oil has protective properties for the skin. It is particularly suitable for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skin care products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax is the wax from the seeds of the sunflower and is used in cosmetics as an emollient and viscosity regulator(1).

Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract is a plant extract from sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides, willow family).(1) In our formulation, we use an extract obtained from upcycled leaves, which is used as an antioxidant, skin-caring ingredient due to its composition (including phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, organic acids). Manufacturers report an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness as well as a fresher-looking eye area(2).

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive ingredients such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids. (1-2)

In skin care, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and reduce signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effect, it is also considered to help prevent premature skin aging caused by environmental influences.

Hydrogenated coco-glycerides are hydrogenated mono-, di- and triglycerides from coconut fatty acids.(1) In cosmetic formulations they are used as emollients/skin care products(2).

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrates are compounds in which mono-, di- and triglycerides from hydrogenated palm oil are esterified with citric acid. In skin care, they are used as effective ingredients to nourish the skin and give it a supple and smooth appearance(1).

Derivative of rapeseed oil, which is used as an emollient, skin care product and viscosity regulator(1).

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and contributes to a smooth, supple application on the skin. In addition, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Hydroxyacetophenone acts as a powerful antioxidant, so it protects the skin from free radicals and at the same time acts as a skin-caring ingredient(1).

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by reacting starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skin care, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity regulator. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves spreadability on the skin. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate also reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps to bind moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well tolerated, ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin. (1-2)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting mainly of kaolinite. It is a widely occurring clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. The fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency. (1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is often used in face masks, cleansing products, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin as it has a mattifying effect and soothes at the same time. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations. (4-5)

Other areas of application include its functions as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and powder base material. Kaolin can also be used as a white colorant (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.

Lauroyl lysine is an ingredient that is used in cosmetics primarily as a sensory modifier and texture enhancer. The derivative of the amino acid lysine improves the feel of the skin and the application properties of cosmetic products(1).

Lecithin, also known as phosphatidylcholine, is the most commonly used neutral phospholipid. It is used as a skin-conditioning emulsifier, solvent for pigments and antioxidant.(1) Phosphatidylcholine can be fully metabolized and provides the skin with two additional essential substances: linoleic acid and choline: Linoleic acid and choline.(2) Lecithin is also often used to form liposomes. Liposomes enable active ingredients to be transported through the stratum corneum(3).

Levulinic acid is a skin care product that has antimicrobial properties and masks unpleasant raw material odors(1-2).

Magnesium hydroxide is an inorganic compound that is used in cosmetics primarily as an absorbent and as a buffer substance to stabilize the pH value(1).

Magnesium oxide (MgO) is an inorganic compound that is widely used in cosmetic formulations as a fine, white powder. In creams, powders or lotions, it serves as a white colorant (CI 77711), which gives the formulation opacity or optical brightness. It also helps to absorb excess sebum and thus ensures a matte complexion. At the same time, its buffering effect can stabilize the pH value of the product and contribute to the desired opacity and consistency. Due to its properties, magnesium oxide is a common excipient in decorative cosmetics and sun protection products(1).

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It has many uses in cosmetic formulations, for example as an absorbent, binding agent, emulsion stabilizer, and film former, as well as a skin care and hair conditioning agent.(1) Maltodextrin also often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation. (2)

Mica is a mixture of minerals with a layered structure that can be easily split into thin platelets. In cosmetics, mica is used as a so-called effect pigment (mica) - for example to create shine, shimmer or a light-reflecting finish. Due to its optical and functional properties, mica is a popular ingredient in powders, foundations, eye shadows and other decorative products(1-2).

Myristyl Myristate is a vegetable-based emulsifier and a waxy fatty acid ester. As a consistency agent, it contributes to the stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions and helps to improve the texture of the formulation by creating a smooth and supple consistency. This makes the emulsion easier to apply, improves absorption on the skin and creates a silky, powdery skin feel.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol. In formulations, it has a skin-conditioning and softening effect (emollient) or dissolves certain active ingredients and fragrances (solvent).(1-2)

Octyldodecyl myristate is an ester of myristic acid (tetradecanoic acid) and 2-octyldodecanol.(1) In cosmetic formulations, it acts as a light emollient that makes the skin soft and supple(2).

Olus Oil is a vegetable oil or vegetable oil blend consisting mainly of fatty acid triglycerides. It is used in skin care as a skin-nourishing emollient that makes the skin supple and, as a natural fat base, improves the texture of creams and oils.

p-Anisic acid (para-anisic acid) is an aromatic carboxylic acid with multifunctional properties. It is known for its masking function(1-2).

Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is a synthetic peptide which consists of the amino acids lysine, methionine and lysil and is bound to palmitic acid. Palmitoyltripeptide-38 is part of the complex used called Volulip™. In in vivo studies conducted by the manufacturer, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface and volume), moisture and youthfulness (more beautiful contour and plumping effect) in at least 69% of the test subjects.(2) It is one of the "matrikine mimetic compounds" that play a key role in the synthesis of elastin and collagen. It can also stimulate cell proliferation. Palmitic acid as a component also has an antioxidant effect. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a synthetic tripeptide used in cosmetics as a skin care ingredient for well-aging. As a matrikine-like peptide, it can address signaling pathways in the extracellular matrix and thus smooth the skin structure: Manufacturer data reports a visible reduction in wrinkles (e.g., forehead, crow's feet) with regular use. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a so-called matrix peptide that stimulates the production of important components of the skin matrix, including collagen I, III, and IV, as well as hyaluronic acid.(1) These structures ensure the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In clinical studies, palmitoyl tripeptide-38 was shown to visibly reduce wrinkle depth. In formulations, it therefore serves to maintain good skin condition and a more even skin texture. (1-3)

Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin better than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1-3) Panthenol has a skin-caring and moisturizing effect and strengthens the skin's barrier function.(2-5) In dry skin, it compensates for the reduced hydration by increasing the water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins of the stratum corneum and thus also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4-5) Panthenol can support wound healing in burns, burns, corneal lesions and allergic dermatitis in all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5-6)

Pentylene glycol is a chemical compound that is frequently used in cosmetic products. Due to its versatile functions, it is a valuable ingredient in the cosmetics industry. It can act as a humectant, solvent and skin and hair care product. In addition, pentylene glycol contributes to the improved stability of cosmetic products(1).

Phytosphingosines belong to the sphingolipids, which occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main fraction of ceramides. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines show excellent clinical results in acne skin care based on both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Polyamide-8 is an oil-structuring polymer used in sun care and make-up products. It stabilizes pigment dispersions, improves durability and ensures a pleasant skin feel. Due to its film-forming properties, Polyamide-8 contributes to wear resistance and thus improves the abrasion resistance of the product(1).

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is the ester of stearic acid with a glycerol polymer. It serves as a skin-caring ingredient with emulsifying properties.(1)

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a versatile, mild emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials. It offers moisturizing properties and forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products. It can also increase the skin penetration of other active ingredients, such as those with anti-ageing properties(1).

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is the ester of stearic acid with a glycerol polymer. It serves as a skin-caring ingredient with emulsifying properties.(1)

Purslane is a succulent and, in the form of the extract, part of the complex used called Volulip™. In in-vivo studies conducted by the manufacturer, twice-daily application of a product containing 1% Volulip™ resulted in a visible improvement in the appearance of the lips (smoothness, curvature, surface and volume), moisture and youthfulness (more beautiful contour and plumping effect) in at least 69% of the test subjects(1).

Potassium sorbate (potassium sorbate) is a preservative used in cosmetics with an antimicrobial effect. It thus contributes to the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation(1).

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a plant-based oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. The plant-based oil is well-tolerated and makes even dry skin supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is obtained using yeast of the genus Pseudozyma. Fermentation produces bioactive components that can enhance the skin-care properties of the oil.(1-3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties. (1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care. (4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the microbial diversity of the skin (alpha diversity) and have a positive effect on the skin microbiome. (1)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-based moisturizer that binds to the skin for a long time and can have a hydrating effect even after rinsing. It improves skin moisture, supports the skin barrier, and is particularly suitable for dry or sensitive skin. (1-3) Studies show that formulations containing saccharide isomerate provide the skin with lasting moisture and can also have a nourishing effect on dry or flaky scalps. (2,4)

Sclerotium gum is a non-ionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator and conditioning component in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Silica is used in cosmetics as a defoamer, anti-caking agent, filler, binder, skin conditioning agent, lubricant, suspending agent and viscosity increasing agent. Skin care products with silica can be good for oily skin to bind excess sebum and leave the skin feeling matte, refreshed and powdery(1).

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-forming agent, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing effect. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modification of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps to improve the texture of skin care products(1).

Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid and is mainly used in cosmetics as a pH regulator and buffer substance. It helps to keep the pH value of formulations stable and thus supports skin compatibility and product shelf life. Sodium citrate is also used as a chelating agent to bind metal ions and thus improve the stability of cosmetic products(1-3).

Sodium dehydroacetate is used as a preservative in cosmetic products.(1) It protects the formulation against microbial spoilage and is an officially approved preservative according to the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Sodium dextran sulfate is used as a viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations. (1) Its benefits for skin health include improved blood circulation and the potential inhibition of viral infections. (2, 3)

Sodium linoleate is the sodium salt of linoleic acid. It acts as an emulsifier and viscosity regulator(1).

Sodium metabisulfite is a preservative. It is used in cosmetics and foodstuffs.

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (SSL) serves as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers are additives that are used in cosmetic formulations to combine two actually immiscible phases, such as oil and water, into a stable, uniform emulsion(1).

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Sucrose stearate (sucrose ester) is used as an emulsifier and skin care agent.(1) It is an ester of sucrose and fatty acids with various hydrophilic-lipophilic properties. Due to its gel-forming properties, it is used in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries.(2-3)

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skin care to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD is a cell protection mechanism, as it protects cells from DNA, protein, and lipid damage. (1-2)

Together with glycine soy protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, superoxide dismutase was shown in an in vivo study to improve skin texture and, in an in vitro study, to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Tin oxide is a water-insoluble, inorganic metal compound that is used in cosmetic products primarily as an opacifier, viscosity regulator and filler. Due to its opacifying properties, it gives formulations a more opaque appearance. It is used in low concentrations in both wash-off and leave-on products(1-2).

Titanium dioxide is a white micropigment used as an opacifier, powder base, UV filter in sunscreens and colorant (C.I. 77891)(1).

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable against oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that tocopheryl acetate in suitable formulations can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skin care products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging. (1-3)

Trihydroxystearin is the triester of glycerin and hydroxystearic acid. It is used as a skin conditioning agent, solvent and viscosity regulator in cosmetic formulations in concentrations of up to 5%(1-2).

Undecane is a saturated hydrocarbon with 11 carbon atoms (C11) that can be of mineral or plant origin. The colorless liquid has a skin-care and emollient effect in cosmetics: as a light emollient, it smooths the skin's surface, gives it a soft feel, and helps to keep the skin in good condition.

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable by-product of wine production. It is valued in skin care for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity. (1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and secondary plant compounds such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that components from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Zinc oxide is a white, mineral powder that is used in cosmetics primarily as a UV filter and pigment (CI 77947). As a component of a sunscreen, it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays by absorbing them and reflecting them to a small extent. Zinc oxide can also have an astringent and anti-inflammatory effect(1-2).

Zingiber Zerumbet Extract is a plant extract from the broad-leaved ginger (Zingiber zerumbet). It is used in cosmetic formulations as a skin care product and contains secondary plant substances with antioxidant properties. Manufacturer data (in vitro) indicate a reduction in oxidative and micro-inflammatory stress. In observational studies (in vivo), an improvement in the appearance of dark circles and puffiness as well as a fresher-looking eye appearance was reported. The extract can also refine the appearance of the skin(1).

Acacia Decurrens (also known as mimosa wax), or black acacia, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract provide skin-conditioning and occlusive effects. Acacia Decurrens Wax contains a mixture of free fatty acids, saturated monoesters, and a large amount of odd-chain hydrocarbons. As a wax, it possesses skin-protecting and film-forming properties.(1)

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is the INCI name for the peptide N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Arginine Hexadecyl Ester. This is a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide. (1) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester promotes the synthesis of biologically active peptides, which actively reduce inflammatory reactions. The peptide thus alleviates burning sensations on the skin and inflammation that can occur due to exposure to heat, contact with certain skin-irritating substances, or mechanical stress. (1-2) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester can also promote the formation of important proteins in the epidermis, thereby helping to improve the epidermal skin barrier. (1)

Amino acids such as alanine, arginine, isoleucine, valine, proline, threonine, glycine, serine, histidine, phenylalanine, aspartic acid and the derivatives sodium PCA and PCA contribute to maintaining the water balance in the uppermost layer of the skin.(1) As natural moisturizing factors (NMF) of the skin, they also support the maintenance of the skin's protective barrier.(2) The amino acids and their derivatives absorb moisture from the environment and store it in the lipid-protected corneocytes of the skin. In combination with lipids that slow down water diffusion, amino acids help the corneocytes to maintain their normal flattened, elongated shape in which they can selectively bind and retain water(3).

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skin care products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting function due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-lightening ingredient in cosmetics(1-2).

In an in-vitro study, the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light was investigated. The results indicate that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)(3).

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum is able to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

Bacillus ferment is obtained from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. According to the manufacturer, Bacillus ferment increases the skin's moisture supply by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by reducing redness and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of several active ingredients that have not yet been extensively studied but have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with EU cosmetics regulations and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continuously being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, which is why we have incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient base. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new studies and adapted accordingly.

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a biotechnologically produced postbiotic from bifidobacteria. We use a lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall components and polysaccharide complexes are retained. According to the manufacturer, the ferment can counteract UV-induced stress and activate natural cell protection processes - with the aim of preventing signs of premature light-induced skin ageing.(1) Studies also show that the lysate can improve skin redness and irritation and modulate inflammatory reactions by reducing the release of inflammatory mediators.(2) By strengthening the resistance of the skin barrier, it helps the skin to defend itself against oxidative and inflammatory stress. It also supports the formation of proteins that serve to stabilize the cell structures in the skin(3-4).

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oils. They act as emollients and solvents in cosmetics. These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerol molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skin care for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a naturally occurring skin lipid in sebum, which consists of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides).

Caprylic/capric triglyceride is used in cosmetic products for its nourishing properties, while it is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.(1)

It moisturizes by forming a light, non-greasy barrier and is absorbed very quickly. As a dispersing agent, it can help to distribute active ingredients such as vitamins evenly in a solution so that they can be easily absorbed by the epidermis.

Ceramides are among the most important dermal sphingolipids, which are the skin's own fats. They make up about half of the stratum corneum lipids. Ceramides have numerous structural and biological functions in the human epidermis, e.g., they are involved in preventing transepidermal water loss. In addition, ceramides regulate processes such as cell division and differentiation of keratinocytes (keratin-forming cells).(1) Ceramides are differentiated according to the length of their bound fatty acid or sphingoid backbone, e.g., into ceramides AP, NP, or EOP.(1)A study found that the facial skin of patients with mild to moderate acne vulgaris contained a significantly lower percentage of ceramides and sphingosines, while transepidermal water loss was significantly higher compared to healthy control subjects.(2) In vitro studies also showed that phytosphingosine inhibits the growth of bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes, and subsequent in vivo studies confirmed the antimicrobial properties by significantly reducing the total bacterial count on unwashed hands. (1)

Cholesterol, also known as cholesterol, belongs to the fats and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is the main component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol itself in the epidermis.

After disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is valued in skin care for its mild and moisturizing properties. This PHA gently exfoliates the top layer of skin and promotes cell renewal, leaving the skin looking smoother and more radiant. Compared to other hydroxy acids, gluconolactone is less irritating and therefore ideal for sensitive skin types. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Gluconolactone can be used in cosmetic products to support the skin barrier, reduce blemishes, and care for mature skin. (1-3)

Glycerin is a trihydric alcohol and thus plays a crucial role in the hydration of the stratum corneum: if the barrier function is impaired, changes in the function of aquaporin 3, an epidermal water/glycerin transporter, can occur, which can lead to reduced hydration and loss of elasticity in the skin. This can be corrected by topical application of glycerin.(1)

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is an emulsifier that also serves as an emollient and skin care agent. It is synthesized from glycerin and stearic acid. It is used in skin care to improve skin moisture and barrier function and reduce irritation.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the botanical name for sunflower oil. It is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and contains a high proportion of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

Linoleic acid is important for maintaining the skin barrier, counteracts water loss, and plays a role in regulating cell division, epidermal differentiation, and consequently in controlling skin flaking.(2)

Sunflower oil has protective properties for the skin. It is particularly suitable for mature, sensitive, dry, damaged, or inflamed skin. This versatile oil is recommended for all skin types and is used in numerous skin care products. It moisturizes, regenerates, protects, and nourishes the skin without clogging the pores.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, also known as sea buckthorn pulp oil, is obtained by cold pressing or centrifuging the pulp of the sea buckthorn berry. The reddish-orange oil is characterized by its high content of bioactive ingredients such as unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., palmitoleic acid), carotenoids, tocopherols, and flavonoids. (1-2)

In skin care, it is primarily used for its regenerative, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. It can strengthen the skin barrier, retain moisture, and reduce signs of dryness or irritation. Due to its antioxidant effect, it is also considered to help prevent premature skin aging caused by environmental influences.

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Inulin is a polysaccharide and belongs to the prebiotics. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria that occur naturally on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1-3) As a prebiotic, inulin therefore has the potential to contribute to a healthy skin barrier. (4-5) In combination with alpha-glucan oligosaccharides, inulin can alleviate skin symptoms such as dryness and itching. (6)

Lactic acid acts as a natural moisturizing factor or as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which gently exfoliates and moisturizes the skin, depending on the concentration used. Lactic acid also stimulates ceramide biosynthesis and improves the skin's barrier function. By stimulating ceramide synthesis, the ceramide content in the skin is increased, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves the structural integrity of the skin. (1-4)

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is obtained by optimized fermentation of Lactobacillus pentosus. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate improves the function of the skin barrier by increasing the formation of tight junction proteins, which contribute to the stabilization of cell assemblies in the skin.(1) In the manufacturer's studies, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate was found to inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokines. Overall, these results show that Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate has anti-inflammatory properties that can strengthen the skin's barrier function, limit transepidermal water loss, increase skin hydration and help restore the skin after external aggressions(2).

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate is a lysate of the lactic acid-producing bacterium Lactococcus lactis. We use a biotechnologically produced lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions and cell wall components are retained. The ferment can support desquamation (gentle desquamation of dead skin cells), promote the restoration of the skin barrier after damage and support a balanced skin microbiome.(1) It supports skin hydration and can help to stabilize the natural pH value.(2) It also exhibits antioxidant properties (in vitro) and helps to neutralize free radicals.(3)

Linolenic acid, also known as alpha-linolenic acid, is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and is one of the essential omega-3 fatty acids. Fatty acids are important components of lipids (fat molecules), which are an integral part of the skin barrier.(1) In addition, alpha-linolenic acid has a pigment-lightening effect, which is due to the suppression of melanin production and increased desquamation of melanin from the epidermis.(2)

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate is a biotechnologically obtained plant extract from the cell cultures of the noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), which contains a variety of bioactive compounds. Studies have shown that noni has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties that can contribute to skin care products to protect against environmental stress, support the skin barrier, and reduce oxidative processes. (1-4)

The biotechnologically derived active ingredient from noni plant stem cells works via an innovative mechanism: it inhibits bacterial communication (quorum sensing), thereby supporting the balance of the skin microbiome and helping to counteract impurities, excess sebum, and skin redness—without disrupting the natural microbiota.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a peptide obtained as a reaction product of palmitic acid and pentapeptide-4. It is also called matrixyl and consists of a short peptide chain with five amino acids (lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, serine), which is bound to palmitic acid.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a biologically active peptide that has been reported to stimulate the production of elastin, fibronectin, glucosaminoglycan and collagens (especially types I, III and IV) and may aid in wound healing.1 It has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing periorbital wrinkles by reducing wrinkle depth and increasing skin barrier function and skin elasticity(1-3).

Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is well absorbed when applied topically to the skin and is rapidly oxidized enzymatically in the body to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A, which is involved in various physiological processes such as intracellular lipid synthesis in the epidermis.(1-2) Panthenol penetrates the skin better than vitamin B5 and is very well tolerated.(1-3) Panthenol has a skin-caring and moisturizing effect and strengthens the skin's barrier function.(2-5) In dry skin, it compensates for the reduced hydration by increasing the water content and positively influencing the molecular mobility of the lipid lamellae and proteins of the stratum corneum and thus also reducing transepidermal water loss.(4-5) Panthenol can support wound healing in burns, burns, corneal lesions and allergic dermatitis in all three phases of wound healing and has a protective effect against skin irritation.(5-6)

Phytosphingosines belong to the sphingolipids, which occur naturally in the stratum corneum both in free form and as part of the main fraction of ceramides. Phytosphingosines are known to strengthen the skin barrier. In addition, phytosphingosines have a moisturizing effect by influencing the filaggrin signaling pathway and promote the formation of natural moisturizing factors.(1) Furthermore, phytosphingosines show excellent clinical results in acne skin care based on both anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.(2-3)

Polyglycerin-3 is polymerized glycerin, which is used in cosmetic products to moisturize the skin. Due to its large molecular size, it penetrates the skin comparatively slowly and thus ensures long-lasting moisturization. It also forms a protective barrier, binds water and traps it in the upper layers of the skin. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and was classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a plant-based oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. The plant-based oil is well-tolerated and makes even dry skin supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)

Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-based moisturizer that binds to the skin for a long time and can have a hydrating effect even after rinsing. It improves skin moisture, supports the skin barrier, and is particularly suitable for dry or sensitive skin. (1-3) Studies show that formulations containing saccharide isomerate provide the skin with lasting moisture and can also have a nourishing effect on dry or flaky scalps. (2,4)

Squalane is the stable, saturated form of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that is also found in plants such as olives. The raw material is a clear, colorless and odorless oil. It is characterized by its high stability. Squalane has a moisturizing effect by strengthening the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Thanks to its skin-like structure, it is easily absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It also supports skin regeneration.(1-3)

Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid that acts as a mild cleansing agent. Stearic acid minimizes lipid damage in the skin barrier and can replenish fatty acids in the stratum corneum.(1) This makes it a mild and moisturizing cleanser for the skin.(2)

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable against oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that tocopheryl acetate in suitable formulations can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skin care products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging. (1-3)

Vitis vinifera seed oil, better known as grape seed oil, is extracted from grape seeds—a valuable by-product of wine production. It is valued in skin care for its skin-nourishing properties and high antioxidant activity. (1-5)

Grape seed oil contains a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (omega-6), as well as vitamin E, phytosterols, and secondary plant compounds such as catechins and gallic acid. These bioactive components can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, strengthen its barrier function, and reduce moisture loss.(2)

Studies show that Vitis vinifera seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties due to its composition. It can be used in cosmetic formulations to support the skin barrier, soothe the skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. (1, 3)

In addition, recent findings suggest that components from Vitis vinifera may also help support the skin microbiome and regulate inflammatory skin processes.(4)

Water is a solvent for hydrophilic active ingredients, for example in the water phase of emulsions.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide and is often used as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. In studies (in vitro), it modulates components of the SNARE complex, whereby mimic micro-contractions can be attenuated - often described as "botox-like" (cosmetic, non-injectable mechanism)(1-2).

Application tests report a smoothing of fine lines. In the eye area, additional brightening and soothing effects were observed on tired-looking eyes. Manufacturer data show that the activity of tyrosinase—a key enzyme in melanin formation—can be inhibited (in vitro), thus contributing to a more even skin tone. (3-4)

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In one study, a cream containing 0.5% allantoin was shown to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce redness after targeted irritation. Allantoin also has an occlusive effect, which can reduce transepidermal water loss from the skin.(1) Allantoin also has a strong antioxidant effect and protects the skin from free radicals. (2)

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with numerous benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is often used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation in rosacea. (2, 4) Azelaic acid also has a strong antioxidant effect by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

Bacillus ferment is obtained from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. According to the manufacturer, Bacillus ferment increases the skin's moisture supply by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by reducing redness and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of several active ingredients that have not yet been extensively studied but have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with EU cosmetics regulations and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continuously being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, which is why we have incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient base. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new studies and adapted accordingly.

Benzyl nicotinate stimulates blood circulation and thus ensures the desired reddening and swelling of the skin for a more voluminous effect in lip plumping products, for example(1).

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a biotechnologically produced postbiotic from bifidobacteria. We use a lysate: the bacteria are inactivated, while metabolic products, cytoplasmic fractions, cell wall components and polysaccharide complexes are retained. According to the manufacturer, the ferment can counteract UV-induced stress and activate natural cell protection processes - with the aim of preventing signs of premature light-induced skin ageing.(1) Studies also show that the lysate can improve skin redness and irritation and modulate inflammatory reactions by reducing the release of inflammatory mediators.(2) By strengthening the resistance of the skin barrier, it helps the skin to defend itself against oxidative and inflammatory stress. It also supports the formation of proteins that serve to stabilize the cell structures in the skin(3-4).

Bisabolol is an active ingredient (sesquiterpene) that was originally extracted from plants, such as chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Chamomile extract therefore naturally contains α-bisabolol. The active ingredient is valued for its anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, and antimicrobial properties. Bisabolol can help to soothe skin irritations and support the regeneration of irritated skin or skin prone to redness. (1-5)

Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It occurs naturally in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promotes wound healing and can minimize redness.(1) In an ex vivo study, a cream containing 0.2% carnosine also exhibited remarkable anti-glycation properties. Glycation is a reaction between proteins and sugars that leads to the formation and accumulation of certain glycation end products. These end products have also been found to be associated with extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. The glycation of collagen I, an essential structural protein in the dermis, impairs its function in many ways. Studies have shown that glycated collagen and elastin have altered biomechanical properties, leading to loss of elasticity and increased stiffness, which in turn promotes the appearance of wrinkles.

Ectoin is a very special amino acid produced by bacteria that can survive under extreme environmental conditions such as extreme dryness, UV radiation or high salt concentrations. This ability to protect against stress can also be used for the skin.

Firstly, ectoine has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the skin and increases skin resistance. (1-2) Ectoine is also particularly effective at moisturizing the skin by minimizing transepidermal water loss and thus preventing the epidermis from drying out.(2) Ectoin in a skin care cream can improve parameters of skin aging such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, and skin surface structure. (3) In cell studies, ectoin was even able to counteract UVA-induced skin aging at different cell levels. (3-4)

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Morinda Citrifolia Callus Culture Lysate is a biotechnologically obtained plant extract from the cell cultures of the noni plant (Morinda citrifolia), which contains a variety of bioactive compounds. Studies have shown that noni has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties that can contribute to skin care products to protect against environmental stress, support the skin barrier, and reduce oxidative processes. (1-4)

The biotechnologically derived active ingredient from noni plant stem cells works via an innovative mechanism: it inhibits bacterial communication (quorum sensing), thereby supporting the balance of the skin microbiome and helping to counteract impurities, excess sebum, and skin redness—without disrupting the natural microbiota.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and belongs to the vitamin B complex. It has a wide range of skin care properties. Niacinamide is an intensively researched active ingredient that has been proven effective in numerous studies for improving the appearance of the skin.

Effects of niacinamide:

Regulation of sebum production: A clinical study showed that 2% niacinamide can reduce the skin's sebum production, minimizing blemishes and oily shine.

Lightening of pigment spots & even skin tone: Niacinamide can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to surrounding skin cells, which can visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. (4)

A study from 2010 also showed that a combination of niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine (NAG) can lead to a significant lightening of pigment spots.(8)

Strengthening the skin barrier & reducing moisture loss: By promoting ceramide and lipid synthesis, niacinamide improves the epidermal barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), making the skin more supple and less prone to irritation.

Anti-aging & skin refinement: Studies show that niacinamide can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines, redness, and roughness.

Thanks to its multifunctional effect on sebum regulation, pigment lightening, barrier strengthening, and anti-aging, niacinamide is a versatile and scientifically proven active ingredient that is suitable for many skin types and skin needs. (8)

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives (retinoids). Retinoids increase the collagen content in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen degradation and increasing collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid, so it only requires a single conversion step to be oxidized into the active form. In current studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with a favorable ratio of activity and tolerability(1).

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for the treatment of skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In a randomized double-blind study, the effect of 0.05 % and 0.1 % retinal on photoaged skin was investigated. Both concentrations were able to achieve an improvement in the general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations were able to achieve a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in the skin's moisture content. 0.1 % Retinal was also able to achieve a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated(2).

The metabolism of retinal to retinoic acid only takes place by keratinocytes at a certain stage of differentiation, which leads to a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to less retinoid-related side effects such as skin irritation or redness compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated(3).

In another study, 0.05% retinal significantly increased the epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin. Retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal skin thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness and was very well tolerated by the patients(4).

In an ex-vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation as well as increased collagen synthesis were observed(5).

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05 - 0.1 % retinal is able to reduce signs of skin ageing.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study on the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, the daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This result indicates a direct antibacterial activity(7).

In another study, 0.05% retinal showed the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid when applied topically, namely a comedolytic and epidermal thickening effect. The results of the study support the topical application of retinal in the treatment of acne(8).

Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetic products. It helps protect the skin from free radicals. Compared to free tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate is significantly more stable against oxygen, light, and heat, making it particularly suitable for light-sensitive formulations such as sunscreens. Studies show that tocopheryl acetate in suitable formulations can alleviate UV-induced skin reactions such as redness and swelling. Due to its good stability, it is used in many skin care products to support the skin barrier and protect against light-induced skin aging. (1-3)

2,3-Butanediol is a dihydric alcohol (diol) with moisturizing and stabilizing properties. In skin care, it is used as a versatile excipient - among other things to bind moisture, improve texture and as a dispersing agent for poorly soluble active ingredients(1).

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer that is used in cosmetic products as a film former, emulsifier or stabilizer. It ensures that the texture is stable, even and pleasant to apply, especially in emulsions with UV filters. We deliberately use this ingredient in formulations where it is functionally necessary to improve texture, stability and the sensory experience(1-2).

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is extracted from the rapeseed plant and is used in many cosmetic products. It has moisturizing and protective properties and a light texture. Its ingredients include many essential fatty acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. These ingredients help to hydrate and protect the skin. It has been classified as safe in a cosmetic ingredient safety assessment(1).

C10-18 triglycerides are also known as neutral oils. They act as emollients and solvents in cosmetics. These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerol molecule.(2-3) Triglycerides, including C10-18 triglycerides, are known in skin care for their moisturizing, skin barrier-protecting, and non-comedogenic properties. They improve the texture and stability of products and promote the absorption of active ingredients, making them suitable for all skin types.

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is mainly used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation and makes the skin feel pleasant(1).

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. The antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

Glyceryl oleate is produced by esterifying oleic acid with glycerin and acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer. In cleansing products, it acts as a moisturizing ingredient that can even strengthen the natural lipid layer and smooth the skin.

Together with superoxide dismutase and hydrolyzed rice protein, glycine soy protein was shown in an in vivo study to improve skin texture and, in vitro, to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Hydrogenated oat kernel oil, also known as oat butter, is a firmer, creamier version of oat oil that has been stabilized through hydrogenation. This oat butter retains the essential skin-care properties of the original oil and contains functional lipid compounds that have a particularly nourishing and regenerating effect. Its buttery texture makes it particularly pleasant to use. (1-8)

Advantages:

Supports the skin in case of irritation and helps with itching.

Protects the skin from moisture loss and leaves it feeling supple.

Promotes the natural skin barrier and strengthens dry, rough or stressed skin.

Ideal for soothing and barrier-strengthening formulations.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Citrate is an esterified mixture of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides and citric acid. In cosmetics, it is used as an emollient, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. It improves the texture and stability of emulsions, prevents oil- and water-based ingredients from separating, and contributes to a smooth, supple application on the skin. In addition, it supports skin care by keeping the skin soft and supple. (1-2)

Together with superoxide dismutase and glycine soy protein, hydrolyzed rice protein was shown in an in vivo study to improve skin texture and, in an in vitro study, to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(1)

Hydroxyethyl cellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that can act as a thickener, suspending agent, film former and stabilizer(1).

Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a modified starch ester produced by reacting starch with hydroxypropyl and phosphate groups. This modification improves the physical and chemical properties of the starch. In skin care, this ingredient acts as a thickener, stabilizer, swelling agent, and viscosity regulator. It gives products a smooth, even consistency and improves spreadability on the skin. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate also reduces the sticky or greasy feel of formulations and helps to bind moisture, keeping the skin hydrated. This ingredient is mild and well tolerated, ideal for various skin types, including sensitive skin. (1-2)

Kaolin is a fine-grained white clay consisting mainly of kaolinite. It is a widely occurring clay mineral found in sedimentary rocks, also known as claystones. The fine, soft powder is characterized by its excellent absorbency. (1-3)

Kaolin is a versatile ingredient in cosmetic products and is often used in face masks, cleansing products, and makeup because it absorbs excess sebum and impurities without drying out the skin. Kaolin is particularly suitable for oily skin as it has a mattifying effect and soothes at the same time. In cosmetics, kaolin is also used as a stabilizer to improve the consistency and stability of formulations. (4-5)

Other areas of application include its functions as an absorbent, swelling agent, opacifier, and powder base material. Kaolin can also be used as a white colorant (C.I. 77004) and as an abrasive component in cleaning products.

Lauroyl lysine is an ingredient that is used in cosmetics primarily as a sensory modifier and texture enhancer. The derivative of the amino acid lysine improves the feel of the skin and the application properties of cosmetic products(1).

Maltodextrin is a plant-based starch sugar. It has many uses in cosmetic formulations, for example as an absorbent, binding agent, emulsion stabilizer, and film former, as well as a skin care and hair conditioning agent.(1) Maltodextrin also often serves as a carrier for active ingredients and plant extracts—for example, to improve the incorporation of the active components into the formulation. (2)

Myristyl Myristate is a vegetable-based emulsifier and a waxy fatty acid ester. As a consistency agent, it contributes to the stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions and helps to improve the texture of the formulation by creating a smooth and supple consistency. This makes the emulsion easier to apply, improves absorption on the skin and creates a silky, powdery skin feel.

Olus Oil is a vegetable oil or vegetable oil blend consisting mainly of fatty acid triglycerides. It is used in skin care as a skin-nourishing emollient that makes the skin supple and, as a natural fat base, improves the texture of creams and oils.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Thanks to its lipophilic properties, it can penetrate deep into the pores and remove excess oil and dead skin cells. This makes salicylic acid particularly suitable for blemished skin with visible blackheads, follicular filaments, or enlarged pores. Studies suggest that salicylic acid can help reduce blemishes and improve skin texture and tone. It is also often used in chemical peels to reduce acne scars and smooth the skin's surface. BHA exfoliates the skin, which can contribute to a clear and even complexion. (1-5)

Sclerotium gum is a non-ionic polysaccharide produced microbially by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It is characterized by a linear chain of glucose units.(1-2) It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity regulator and conditioning component in cosmetic formulations.(2-3)

Sesamum indicum, or sesame, is a plant that is primarily native to tropical regions. The ingredient is extracted from the seeds and consists of various fatty acids such as palmitic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, as well as other mostly unsaturated fatty acids.(1) It also has an antioxidant effect.(2) It is often used in cosmetic products because of the myristic acid it contains, which acts as a stabilizing emulsifier. (1) It has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients. (3)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer is a water-soluble polymer that acts as a film-forming agent, emulsion stabilizer, and viscosity controller.(1) Polymers are small molecules consisting of repeating units of chemically bonded monomers. They are ubiquitous in nature; for example, the DNA of all living cells, as well as the proteins and starch in our food, are all composed of polymers. The polymers most commonly used in cosmetics have cationic charges, which give the skin a smooth and nourishing effect. Other polymers can, for example, form a film on the skin’s surface.(2)

Sodium carboxymethyl starch, also known as sodium carboxymethyl starch, is a modification of natural starch that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry. Sodium carboxymethyl starch has emulsion-stabilizing and viscosity-controlling properties and thus helps to improve the texture of skin care products(1).

Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an antioxidant enzyme used in skin care to combat oxidative stress, reduce premature skin aging, and protect against environmental damage (including UV radiation). It plays a crucial role in protecting cells from oxidative stress by catalyzing the dismutation of superoxide radicals (O2-) into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. SOD is a cell protection mechanism, as it protects cells from DNA, protein, and lipid damage. (1-2)

Together with glycine soy protein and hydrolyzed rice protein, superoxide dismutase was shown in an in vivo study to improve skin texture and, in an in vitro study, to improve capillary blood flow and stimulate fibroblast proliferation.(3)

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is an ingredient used in cosmetic formulations as a stabilizer and complexing agent. It binds metal ions that could otherwise impair the stability and quality of a product(1).

Xanthan gum is a microbial polysaccharide produced by fermentation of bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas campestris. It is safe and acts as a thickener and stabilizer of emulsions and suspensions(1-2).

Acetic acid, also known as vinegar acid, is produced through fermentation and has antimicrobial properties as well as helping to regulate the pH of a cosmetic formulation.(1)

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide is a prebiotic. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial bacteria naturally occurring on the skin and play an important role in maintaining a balanced skin microbiome.(1-3) In combination with inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharides can relieve skin symptoms such as dryness and itching.(4)

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is an emollient and has a high spreadability. It was developed as a substitute for the common allergen lanolin(1).

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is a modern chemical UV filter with a particularly broad absorption spectrum of 280 to 400 nm. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to be very photostable. BEMT is oil-soluble and ideal for broad-spectrum formulations with a high SPF.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is a sunscreen also known as avobenzone that provides UVA protection. This light brown, crystalline powder has a faint odor. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane also protects cosmetic products from photo-oxidation(1).

Shea butter is a fat obtained from the seeds of the shea tree. The saponifiable fraction is predominantly composed of stearic and oleic acids and smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic and arachidic acids.(1-3) It also contains a significant unsaponifiable fraction with bioactive substances, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), which have skin-improving properties.(1) On a molecular level, shea butter extracts have been shown to inhibit several cellular inflammatory pathways and can therefore reduce skin irritation.(1-3) Shea butter can therefore soothe rough and cracked skin and is even effective in the supportive treatment of eczema.(2)

Alkanes are linear, saturated hydrocarbons that are used in cosmetics as light oils or solvents—often as an alternative to silicones. Many conventional alkanes are derived from petroleum. We rely on a raw material that comes from plant sources and is readily biodegradable. We have deliberately chosen this ingredient to create a product that is pleasant to the senses while offering a more environmentally friendly alternative to silicone oils.

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a mild, nonionic sugar surfactant. It is the product obtained by condensing a mixture of caprylic and decyl alcohols with glucose. Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is recognized as safe in current practices and concentrations of use.

Capsicum Frutenscens Fruit Extract is a chili extract. The capsaicin it contains stimulates blood circulation, thus increasing volume and enhancing the natural lip color(1).

Coco glucoside, also known as cocoglycoside, is a mild, non-ionic sugar surfactant. Cocoglycoside is the product obtained by the condensation of coconut fatty alcohols with glucose. Cocoglycoside is recognized as safe at current use practices and use concentrations(1).

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a modern chemical UVA filter with an absorption range of 320 to 400 nm. DHHB provides reliable protection against long-wave UVA radiation—a major cause of premature skin aging—and, in combination with effective UVB filters, contributes to SPF performance. DHHB is oil-soluble and ideal for long-lasting sunscreen formulations.

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, also known as iscotrizinol, is an effective UVB filter that is highly soluble in oils. Due to its high specific extinction and excellent solubility, it is considered to be very efficient. Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone can be used alone or in combination with one or more UV filters in any cosmetic formulation containing a suitable lipid phase. It can also be used in combination with inorganic UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Dimethyl isosorbide is a solvent that is used to improve the penetration of active ingredients into the skin due to its high penetration power. This can improve the effectiveness of the various ingredients(1).

Ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) is a photostable chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. EHT is a UVB filter that is suitable for use in sunscreens.(1)

Gellan gum is a biotechnologically produced polysaccharide obtained through fermentation using bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The ingredient is considered to be of plant origin and is used in cosmetics as an excipient with a wide range of functions. (1)

In cosmetic formulations, gellan gum primarily acts as a viscosity modifier by influencing the product’s texture and flow properties. In addition, it has film-forming properties: it forms a thin, even film, which both improves the feel on the skin and can help stabilize the formulation. (1–3)

Glyceryl glucoside is a moisturizing ingredient formed by the condensation of glycerin and glucose. In skincare, it is primarily used in products for dry, dehydrated, or compromised skin, as it can improve skin hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. (1)

In addition to its function as a humectant, recent studies suggest that glyceryl glucoside may promote the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes. AQP3 is an important water and glycerin channel in the epidermis. By rebalancing this channel, glyceryl glucoside can help regulate water distribution in the skin, reduce transepidermal water loss, and thus support the skin’s hydration and barrier function. (2,3)

Hydrogenated lecithin is the end product of the controlled hydrogenation of lecithin and has the same functions as lecithin. It also acts as a suspending agent.

Isomalt is a plant-based sugar substitute composed of two sugar alcohols. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a humectant (technical ingredient) because it helps bind moisture within the product. (1)

Kefiran is a vegan, skin-nourishing active ingredient obtained through the fermentation of the bacterial strain Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens in a plant-based culture medium and is present as a component of a ferment lysate. (1)

In skincare, kefiran is considered a versatile active ingredient: it helps the skin defend against free radicals, counteracts oxidative stress, and can reduce redness. It also helps strengthen the skin barrier and promotes skin elasticity and firmness. This makes kefiran particularly suitable for skincare products designed to protect, regenerate, and soothe the skin. (1,2)

Lauryl glucoside (lauryl glucoside) is a mild, non-ionic sugar surfactant. Lauryl glucoside is the product obtained by the condensation of lauryl alcohol with glucose. Lauryl glucoside is recognized as safe at current use practices and use concentrations(1).

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA) is a water-soluble, chemical UV filter with an absorption range between 280 and 320 nm. As a UVB absorber, PBSA specifically protects the skin from sun-related damage such as sunburn. It can be ideally combined with other UV filters(1).

Phenylpropanol is an organic compound that belongs to the group of aromatic alcohols and has a reliable antimicrobial effect.(1) In addition, phenylpropanol is a non-sensitizing substance that masks unpleasant raw material odors.(2)

Potassium Hydrolyzed Polygamma-Glutamate is the potassium salt of hydrolyzed polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer derived from fermentation consisting of cross-linked glutamic acid units. Thanks to its low molecular weight, this active ingredient penetrates the skin easily and hydrates it. It does so by utilizing two complementary mechanisms: it supports the body’s own hyaluronic acid in the epidermis while simultaneously increasing natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Additionally, it can strengthen the skin barrier and help improve skin elasticity. (1–3)

Potassium lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid and is frequently used as an excipient in cosmetic formulations. In skincare, it also acts as a humectant, as it binds water and thus helps protect the skin from drying out. In addition, potassium lactate has skin-nourishing properties and promotes a pleasant skin feel. Thanks to its buffering properties, it also helps regulate and stabilize the pH of cosmetic products, which is important for the formulation’s tolerability and efficacy. (1)

Potassium phosphate is a synthetically produced phosphate salt that is used in cosmetics as a buffering agent to regulate and stabilize the pH value.

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan is a water-soluble derivative of beta-glucan—a natural polysaccharide derived from microorganisms such as yeasts or fungi. In cosmetic formulations, beta-glucan has a moisturizing effect and forms a smooth film on the skin that supports its barrier function and protects the skin from moisture loss. At the same time, it can activate immune cells such as macrophages, thereby promoting skin regeneration—for example, following stress or irritation. Clinical data demonstrate that beta-glucan can soothe the skin, reduce redness, and accelerate regeneration. (1–4)

Sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda, is an alkaline salt and is used in cosmetics in small quantities as a pH regulator. This ensures that the end product reaches the desired pH range to ensure skin compatibility and product stability(1).

Sodium polyglutamate is the sodium salt of polyglutamic acid, a biopolymer obtained through fermentation consisting of linked glutamic acid units. Due to its high molecular weight, it acts primarily on the skin’s surface, where it forms a moisture-retaining film. The active ingredient provides immediate hydration, improves skin elasticity, and leaves the skin feeling pleasant. It can also enhance the stability of hyaluronic acid. (1-3)

Sucrose Cocoate is a mild, moisturizing surfactant and is composed of fatty acid esters from coconut oil and sucrose esters. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and was classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Tribehenin has a wax-like consistency, which means that it can make cosmetic products creamy to waxy. It is recommended for use in cosmetic products and has been classified as safe in a safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients(1).

Triethyl citrate or citric acid ester is a solvent and diluent and is considered to be non-sensitizing to the skin. It is even approved for use in foodstuffs(1).

The efficacy of a preparation containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate on acne vulgaris was also investigated in a study. Triethyl citrate is hydrolyzed by C. acnes (triggering acne in certain circumstances) to the diethyl ester and monoethyl ester of citric acid and to citric acid itself. As a result, the microenvironment of the pores becomes acidic, which leads to reduced growth of C. acnes, inhibition of bacterial lipases and modulation of the keratolytic effect(2).

Vanillin is considered a flavoring and fragrance substance with a pleasant vanilla note. The frequency of sensitization to vanillin is considered rare and the sensitization potency is considered low. In an illustrative risk assessment of cosmetic products containing vanillin, 0.5% vanillin was classified as safe. In Better Balm 0.33% vanillin was used, in Hypnotic Hues 0.16% vanillin was used(1).

Vanillyl butyl ether is oil-soluble and creates a lasting and gentle feeling of warmth on the skin, resulting in vasodilation without undesirable side effects such as irritation or itching. The vasodilation creates a plumping effect(1).