DR. EMI ARPA SKIN
DR. EMI ARPA SKIN

INCI Glossary

Our INCI lexicon decodes every formula—clearly, comprehensively, and with complete transparency.

A

ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skin care products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting function due to its antioxidant activity, ascorbyl glucoside can also be used as a skin-lightening ingredient in cosmetics(1-2).

In an in-vitro study, the photoprotective effect against ultraviolet (UV) light was investigated. The results indicate that the vitamin C derivative can prevent damage caused by UVB radiation by partially scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)(3).

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective effects, ascorbyl glucoside in our Serious C Serum is able to improve the health and appearance of the skin.

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ASCORBYL PALMITATE

Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C. While pure vitamin C is water-soluble and often unstable, this esterified form offers excellent stability in oil-based formulations. (1)
In our products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily used as a technological antioxidant. It serves to protect the sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation. In particular, it prevents vegetable oils from becoming rancid, thereby ensuring the product’s shelf life and quality. (1)-(3)
Ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective when combined with vitamin E. This creates a synergistic effect in which ascorbyl palmitate regenerates depleted vitamin E. This “recycling process” provides a longer-lasting protective shield against free radicals within the formulation. (4)

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ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its antioxidant properties.(1) It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human skin and is also able to promote collagen synthesis in the deeper cells. (2-3) In a study from 2021, in combination with other substances such as rice peptides, it was able to increase skin moisture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote cell renewal in the epidermis. (4)

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ASTAXANTHIN

Astaxanthin isextractedfrom thegreen algae Haematococcus pluvialis. This algae is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). It occurs in a variety of organisms, ranging from tiny microorganisms to higher plants and animals. It is particularly known for its pronounced antioxidant effect. Its antioxidant properties are based on its chemical structure. It has the ability to neutralize free radicals. These unstable molecules are capable of causing cell damage. Astaxanthin's protective mechanism prevents premature skin aging. (1-3)

The antioxidant effect to protect cell membranes is stronger than that of vitamin C and vitamin E. Astaxanthin is therefore considered to be the natural carotenoid with the strongest antioxidant effect(4).

Research suggests that astaxanthin may be beneficial in inflammatory diseases. Due to its diverse functions in skin biology, astaxanthin is already being used in dermatology(5).

A particular advantage of astaxanthin is that it contains both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (fat-loving) components. This enables astaxanthin to penetrate the bilayer of the skin more effectively and to have a more multi-layered effect than other antioxidants(6).

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AVENA SATIVA KERNEL FLOUR

Colloidal oatmeal is a high-quality oat extract in powder form that is refined using a special process. A "colloid" or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed, insoluble particles that are in suspension. This ensures a silky texture and optimal skin compatibility. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties and can soothe redness and irritation.(1-7)

Advantages:

Promotes skin hydration through the availability of beta-glucan, which acts as a natural moisturizer.

Can reduce itching and irritation.

Ensures smooth, non-greasy textures in creams and lotions.

Ideal for formulations to soothe sensitive or irritated skin(1).

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AVENA SATIVA KERNEL OIL

Oat kernel oil is a lipid-rich oil that is obtained from oat kernels (Avena sativa) using a particularly gentle CO₂ extraction process. It contains a high proportion of omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) as well as bioactive compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects(1-8).

Advantages:

Strengthens the skin barrier and supports the regeneration of damaged skin, especially sensitive skin.

Soothes irritated skin and protects against environmental oxidative stress.

Promotes the skin's moisture retention without leaving a heavy or greasy film.

Particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin conditions(1).

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AZELAIC ACID

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid with numerous benefits for the skin. At concentrations of 15% or higher, azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production in skin cells.(1) Azelaic acid is often used to treat acne because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and removes dead skin cells.(2-3) Azelaic acid can reduce inflammation, redness, swelling, and skin irritation in rosacea. (2, 4) Azelaic acid also has a strong antioxidant effect by inhibiting the formation of ROS (reactive oxygen species). (5)

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B

BACILLUS FERMENT

Bacillus ferment is obtained from acidophilic bacteria. In one study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. According to the manufacturer, Bacillus ferment increases the skin's moisture supply by reducing transepidermal water loss. It strengthens the skin barrier by upregulating lipids and genes associated with the stratum corneum. It also protects keratinocytes from dehydration and promotes skin regeneration and repair by reducing redness and increasing skin firmness and elasticity.(2) Our products are based on ingredients whose effectiveness has been proven in scientific studies. During the development process, we also became aware of several active ingredients that have not yet been extensively studied but have already shown promising results. All ingredients used are, of course, compliant with EU cosmetics regulations and safe, skin-friendly use is always guaranteed. This includes Bacillus Ferment, the addition of which has had a significant, positive impact on the results of our products. Research is an ongoing process in which new ingredients with potential are continuously being discovered. Our mission is to always develop the most innovative formulations, which is why we have incorporated novel, exciting ingredients such as Bacillus Ferment into some of our products, in addition to the evidence-based active ingredient base. Our active ingredient lexicon is regularly reviewed for up-to-date information and new studies and adapted accordingly.

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