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Peptides in Skincare: The Keys to Your Glow

You hear about peptides everywhere, but aren’t quite sure what they actually do? Think of them as little messengers that deliver important messages to your skin. Whether it’s boosting collagen or strengthening the skin barrier, we’ll tell you why they’re a must-have in your skincare routine. 

Contents

WHAT ARE PEPTIDES?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that serve as building blocks for proteins such as collagen, elastin, and keratin—the structures that play a key role in the skin’s firmness and elasticity. In the world of molecules, a primary distinction is made between two groups: oligopeptides, which consist of only a few amino acids, and polypeptides, which are composed of significantly longer chains and are therefore much more complex

The reason peptides are so popular in skincare is their versatility: as a class of compounds, they perform various functions in the body, including acting as signaling or messenger molecules. Because peptides vary greatly in structure, there is no single “miracle peptide,” but rather many different types, each with its own unique properties. Their actual effect on the skin depends heavily on their specific structure and function. That’s why it’s crucial which peptides are used in a formulation and how they’re combined. Peptides can be linked to specific processes in the skin that are important for skin structure. These include mechanisms related to collagen and elastin: two proteins that play a key role in the skin’s firmness and elasticity. Think of it this way: As we age or our skin is stressed by external factors, the natural production of these proteins decreases. By applying peptides topically (i.e., from the outside), we signal the skin to stimulate the production of these natural proteins. Since peptides are also quite small molecules, they can more easily penetrate the upper layers of the skin and perform their function there.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND PEPTIDES IN SKIN CARE

Peptides are often referred to as “signal molecules.” Depending on their structure, they can perform various functions in skincare. In simple terms, they can be divided into three groups:

Signal peptides
These peptides are involved in processes that are important for skin structure, such as those related to collagen and elastin.

Carrier peptides (e.g., copper peptides)
They can help make certain trace elements, such as copper, available to the skin, thereby supporting processes related to skin renewal.

Soothing Peptides
These peptides are often used to balance the skin and can help promote a more comfortable skin feel.

The main benefits of peptides in skincare:

  • support skin structure and promote a smoother-looking complexion
  • can help strengthen the skin barrier
  • Depending on the type, they have a calming and balancing effect
  • can be easily combined with other active ingredients

In short: Peptides are versatile ingredients that are specifically used to support the skin’s natural functions.

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PEPTIDES AT DR EMI ARPA SKIN

Peptides are among the most exciting ingredients in modern skincare. However, their effectiveness depends heavily on how they are formulated and combined. As standalone ingredients, they are rarely sufficient to visibly improve the skin’s appearance. Only when combined with other active ingredients do they reach their full potential. That’s why at DR EMI ARPA SKIN, we combine peptides with ceramides and azelaic acid in the Barrier Boost CPA Barrier Cream to not only promote collagen synthesis but also support the skin barrier. In the Better Balm, ceramides, fermented camellia seed oil, 5% panthenol, shea butter, and a peptide within the polyglyceride base ensure that dry lips are hydrated, repaired, and protected. 

Specialized treatments like our Daily Depuff Total Eye Treatment also demonstrate that peptides are team players: Here, a special acetyl hexapeptide-8 works hand in hand with hyaluronic acid and ectoine to reduce puffiness while hydrating the sensitive eye area. For skin needs that require even more support, the Barrier Boost+ Rich Cream even uses a complex of three different peptides, embedded in a nourishing lipid structure. 

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT: BARRIER BOOST+ RICH CREAM

For those moments when your skin needs extra care, there’s Barrier Boost+ Rich Cream. A nourishing face cream that soothes sensitive skin in particular and forms a protective layer that strengthens the skin barrier and locks in moisture. Whether as a rich day cream in winter, a nourishing night treatment during stressful times, or year-round intensive facial care for dry and sensitive skin: the rich formula with ceramides, peptides, and ectoine strengthens the skin barrier, reduces feelings of tightness, and preserves skin moisture. The Rich Cream adapts to your skin’s needs.

Barrier Boost+ Rich Cream

  • 10% prebiotics and postbiotics support the skin microbiome and have a soothing effect.
  • 1% ectoine strengthens the skin barrier, soothes the skin, and provides moisture.
  • 5-fold ceramide complex can reduce water loss and strengthen the skin barrier.
  • 3 peptides support collagen synthesis and help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Astaxanthin has a photoprotective effect and is considered one of the most powerful natural antioxidants.

For skin that asks for more.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

As chains of amino acids, peptides are the essential building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin, which keep your skin firm and elastic. In skincare, they act as smart messenger molecules: As signaling molecules, they can prompt the skin to produce certain natural proteins, thereby stimulating collagen production, for example. Peptides therefore do not “work” like a traditional active ingredient, but rather indirectly through signaling processes in the skin. 

At DR EMI ARPA SKIN, we focus on effective combinations to ensure that the peptides in our skincare products can reach their full potential. In the Barrier Boost CPA, they are complemented by ceramides and azelaic acid, while the Daily Depuff Total Eye Treatment relies on the synergy between hyaluronic acid and ectoine. Finally, our spotlight product, the Barrier Boost+ Rich Cream, combines three peptides with ceramides and antioxidants like astaxanthin to provide comprehensive support for the skin barrier. 

Abdallah M, et al. (2020). Peptides in dermatology and cosmetology: properties and applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(8), 1782–1790.

Fields K, Falla T, Rodan K, Bush L. (2009). Bioactive peptides: signaling the future. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 8(1), 8–13.

Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. (2009). The role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345.

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Schagen SK. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16.

Zhang L, Falla TJ, Wu M, Fedorova A. (2022). Peptides in cosmetics: Recent advances in anti-aging and skin barrier repair. *Biomolecules*, 12(12), 1784.

Zhang Y, et al. (2023). Advances in peptide-based anti-aging skincare: Mechanisms and clinical perspectives. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 24, 14567.

FAQ

Yes, peptides generally combine well with other active ingredients. While retinol stimulates cell renewal, peptides can effectively complement your skincare routine. When paired with vitamin C, you get a double benefit: vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, while peptides boost collagen production. It’s a powerful combination for your routine.

There’s no such thing as “too early”—only “just right.” Since natural collagen production begins to decline slowly as early as your mid-20s, peptides are ideal for prevention (well-aging). But even for younger skin that’s stressed by environmental factors, they help maintain the skin’s resilience by supporting the skin barrier.

Since peptides are modeled after the body’s own structures and do not have an exfoliating effect, they do not trigger purging (an initial worsening of symptoms). On the contrary, they can often even have a soothing effect. 

Consistency is key here. While ingredients like hyaluronic acid often provide immediate results, peptides tend to work “behind the scenes” over the long term. Since they influence cellular processes, you should give them several weeks to improve your skin’s structure in a lasting way.

With peptides, there’s hardly such a thing as “too much” in the sense of over-treatment, since they work in a highly targeted manner. However, the quality of the formulation is more important than the quantity. Including multiple peptides in a single product (such as our Barrier Boost+ Rich Cream) can be more effective than layering five different peptide serums on top of one another.

Specific peptides, such as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 found in our Daily Depuff Total Eye Treatment, are designed to support microcirculation and visibly reduce puffiness. The specific effect achieved therefore depends on the specific amino acid sequence.