DR. EMI ARPA SKIN
DR. EMI ARPA SKIN

INCI Glossary

Our INCI lexicon decodes every formula—clearly, comprehensively, and with complete transparency.

C

CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS FRUIT EXTRACT

Capsicum Frutenscens Fruit Extract is a chili extract. The capsaicin it contains stimulates blood circulation, thus increasing volume and enhancing the natural lip color(1).

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CARBOMER

Carbomer consists of a high molecular weight chain of acrylic acid units. It functions as a gel and film former and thus increases the viscosity of formulations, stabilizing emulsions(1).

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CARNOSINE

Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It occurs naturally in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promotes wound healing and can minimize redness.(1) In an ex vivo study, a cream containing 0.2% carnosine also exhibited remarkable anti-glycation properties. Glycation is a reaction between proteins and sugars that leads to the formation and accumulation of certain glycation end products. These end products have also been found to be associated with extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. The glycation of collagen I, an essential structural protein in the dermis, impairs its function in many ways. Studies have shown that glycated collagen and elastin have altered biomechanical properties, leading to loss of elasticity and increased stiffness, which in turn promotes the appearance of wrinkles.

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CERAMIDE

Ceramides are among the most important dermal sphingolipids, which are the skin's own fats. They make up about half of the stratum corneum lipids. Ceramides have numerous structural and biological functions in the human epidermis, e.g., they are involved in preventing transepidermal water loss. In addition, ceramides regulate processes such as cell division and differentiation of keratinocytes (keratin-forming cells).(1) Ceramides are differentiated according to the length of their bound fatty acid or sphingoid backbone, e.g., into ceramides AP, NP, or EOP.(1)A study found that the facial skin of patients with mild to moderate acne vulgaris contained a significantly lower percentage of ceramides and sphingosines, while transepidermal water loss was significantly higher compared to healthy control subjects.(2) In vitro studies also showed that phytosphingosine inhibits the growth of bacteria, including Cutibacterium acnes, and subsequent in vivo studies confirmed the antimicrobial properties by significantly reducing the total bacterial count on unwashed hands. (1)

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CETEARYL ALCOHOL

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. In cosmetic products, it is mainly used as a co-emulsifier, stabilizer and consistency agent. It gives creams and lotions a smooth texture, improves the stability of the formulation and makes the skin feel pleasant(1).

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CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is used as a skin care product (emollient) and also as a hair care product(1).

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CHOLESTEROL

Cholesterol, also known as cholesterol, belongs to the fats and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is the main component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes cholesterol itself in the epidermis.

After disruption of the skin barrier, the early phase of repair is characterized by an increase in fatty acid and cholesterol biosynthesis, followed by epidermal sphingolipid synthesis. This highlights the importance of these epidermal lipids for the integrity and function of the skin barrier.(1)

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CHONDRUS CRISPUS

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae rich in carrageenan that acts as a thickening agent and stabilizer. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysaccharides with promising properties, such as antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic activities. The antioxidant effect is attributed to polyphenols.(1-2)

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