Potassium sorbate (potassium sorbate) is a preservative used in cosmetics with an antimicrobial effect. It thus contributes to the shelf life of cosmetic products. The substance occurs naturally in berries, for example, but is usually produced synthetically in cosmetics. In rare cases, potassium sorbate can cause mild skin irritation(1).

Propanediol (1,3-propanediol) is a natural humectant that is ecologically sustainable. It serves as a solvent and preservative that also moisturizes.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, also known as sweet almond oil, is a plant-based oil extracted from the seeds of the almond tree (Prunus amygdalus). It is rich in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and oleic acids, which are also naturally found in the skin barrier. The plant-based oil is well-tolerated and makes even dry skin supple.(1) In addition, sweet almond oil contains large amounts of vitamins E and K, which promote skin regeneration and maintain its elasticity.(2)

Plum seed oil has antioxidant properties and is rich in valuable fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acid. It has skin-repairing properties, is easy to spread and is non-greasy(1).

Fermented camellia seed oil, known as Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, is obtained using yeast of the genus Pseudozyma. Fermentation produces bioactive components that can enhance the skin-care properties of the oil.(1-3) Fermented oils are characterized by their moisturizing, antioxidant, and nourishing properties. (1, 4) Camellia seed oil is also suitable for skin and hair care. (4) An in vivo study also showed that fermented oils can increase the microbial diversity of the skin (alpha diversity) and have a positive effect on the skin microbiome. (1)

Resveratrol, a polyphenolic compound found in various plants such as grapes and berries, has attracted considerable interest in skin care due to its diverse properties. Its range of effectiveness includes anti-aging, anti-melanogenic (skin lightening), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. (1-4)

In addition to its antimicrobial effect against bacteria and fungi, resveratrol also acts as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations because it can penetrate the skin. Within the skin layers, it stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributes to an increase in the concentration of collagen III.(3-4)

In addition, resveratrol has antioxidant properties that protect our cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals and UV radiation. As a cosmetic ingredient, it helps protect the skin from external influences. (1, 4, 5)

Studies support the potential of resveratrol and its derivatives as valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A derivatives (retinoids). Retinoids increase the collagen content in the upper dermis by inhibiting collagen degradation and increasing collagen synthesis. Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid, so it only requires a single conversion step to be oxidized into the active form. In current studies, retinal is considered the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with a favorable ratio of activity and tolerability(1).

Retinal is a popular active ingredient for the treatment of skin with signs of photoaging and is generally better tolerated than retinoic acid. Photoaging is the premature ageing of the skin caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In a randomized double-blind study, the effect of 0.05 % and 0.1 % retinal on photoaged skin was investigated. Both concentrations were able to achieve an improvement in the general signs of photoaging as well as a significant improvement in fine wrinkles and skin roughness. In addition, both concentrations were able to achieve a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an increase in the skin's moisture content. 0.1 % Retinal was also able to achieve a significant improvement in skin pigmentation. Both concentrations were well tolerated(2).

The metabolism of retinal to retinoic acid only takes place by keratinocytes at a certain stage of differentiation, which leads to a more controlled uptake of retinoic acid. This leads to less retinoid-related side effects such as skin irritation or redness compared to tretinoin and other retinoids, which is why retinal is generally better tolerated(3).

In another study, 0.05% retinal significantly increased the epidermal thickness and elasticity of the skin. Retinal treatment also led to an increase in dermal skin thickness and a reduction in skin stiffness and was very well tolerated by the patients(4).

In an ex-vivo study, significant repair of elastic fibers and collagen changes caused by UV radiation as well as increased collagen synthesis were observed(5).

Overall, it can be concluded that 0.05 - 0.1 % retinal is able to reduce signs of skin ageing.

Retinal has mild comedolytic properties.(6) In a study on the antibacterial activity of retinal against C. acnes, the daily topical application of 0.05% retinal was also associated with a significant reduction in C. acnes density. This result indicates a direct antibacterial activity(7).

In another study, 0.05% retinal showed the same activity profile as 0.025% retinoic acid when applied topically, namely a comedolytic and epidermal thickening effect. The results of the study support the topical application of retinal in the treatment of acne(8).

Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-based moisturizer that binds to the skin for a long time and can have a hydrating effect even after rinsing. It improves skin moisture, supports the skin barrier, and is particularly suitable for dry or sensitive skin. (1-3) Studies show that formulations containing saccharide isomerate provide the skin with lasting moisture and can also have a nourishing effect on dry or flaky scalps. (2,4)